LbCrew, sorry I didn't mean a five wave session I meant a five good wave session. There could be ten to twenty waves thrown in there that I don't consider good. I rarely surf on days that it is so small you really need a longboard. The days I have had people say something have been knee to waist high weak summer swells that really were full outlined shortboard or fish waves. No real reason to ride a log on those days unless that is your thing or your just being lazy.
To be honest, noseriding is my thing... not so much longboarding. If it wasn't for noseriding, I wouldn't ride a log. I've been through the HPLB thing, and for sure, there's little there for me.
Fish blow my mind. I have a deep love for the true retro, twin keeled, deep swallow, fish. There's nothing else like it. Goes back to my junior high school days I guess. I've shaped and ridden just about every variation and without a doubt, there's very little to improve upon that particular original design. A few tweaks, but really very close the the original. Once you get them figured out, they're just pure fun, with no frustration or struggle in small surf. All of the Plank type boards that are very trendy now are just bastarizations of the fish, designed to replace it with a more performance oriented, full volumed cousin. But sorry... they just miss the mark.
The one good thing I can say about them is they've opened up the minds of a lot of surfers. It's like... if surfers can't think outside the box, just make the box bigger. So for that... thank you, Matt B.
I also agree with your comment about full outlined shortboards... what I call grovelers... just a slightly fuller, flatter, slightly wider but shorter shortboard. They really open up the performance window for small surf for those who don't like the pedal-to-the-metal drive of a fish.
But when it gets good, nothing takes the place of a modern performance shortboard.
when its small enough to warrent rideing a log i usually stand up bodyboard or skim on it.. but my one board quiver of 5'10 stretch quad takes just about any wave oc can produce from 2ft and mushy to overhead and draining
I see this all the time out and about...I feel bad at times but more waves for me... The guy will be sinking the thing, not getting anything but a headache! Just put some foam under ya...you don't have to log it but get real...What's everyone think???
what do i think? i think that you're prob. a troll, given that this is what you decided should be your first post on this forum. stirring up trouble/unneeded controversy.
as others have noted, if you're riding a board that's suited to the conditions w/ the appropriate amount of foam, you'll be able to catch just about anything. i rode a 5'10" stubby tues. afternoon in knee-waist high mush & caught a ton of waves. could i have logged it? sure. but i prefer to ride shortboards. logging is fun, but only when i'm in the mood for it. & i'd rather ride just about anything except a "funboard".
Cant believe this thread hhaha.. but I like to log it when its 1-2ft or less, Ide rather longboard and cruize then sit on the computer all day. Longboarding IS surfing and always will be the staple of surfing. Just watch some Bruce brown videos (step into liquid, Endless Summer 1-2)
Longboarding is not gay like most little dumb kids think.. But shortboarding is sick and will allways be the sickest thing! Cant beat boosting airs on a 4ft barrel after getting slotted :cool
See you out there.. just surf! 10ft board or 5ft!! we all rip!