It's like everyone else says, time in the water. Doesn't mean you still don't get butterflies, but you get a lot more confident in your abilities. Also, 12-15 ft at Pavones is a lot different than 12-15ft East Coast beach break. The paddle out was a little tough, I found it akin to a big day at Assateague or St. Augustine. Once I was out though, I found it to be much more forgiving. The wave is so consistent that you pick up on its nuances pretty quickly. I found a 12 or 15 ft wave to be about the same as an 8ft wave once you were on it. The drop was just a little longer (and way more fun). Plus, getting pounded in 70-80 degree tropical water in board shorts is way less intimidating than getting pounded with all your rubber on. Call me crazy but I actually enjoy getting worked when it's warm.![]()





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