wow. thats awesome. see i dont know how you overcome that fear tho. I cant ever imagine being so experienced that a 15foot face doesnt scare the sh*t out of me. the biggest wave i've ever seen was probably 20 feet at the CP near the end of Hurricane Earl. There was only one guy out there (but plenty more on the beach watching). It was a sneaky set that broke farther out. I've never seen anyone paddle so fast hahaha
It's like everyone else says, time in the water. Doesn't mean you still don't get butterflies, but you get a lot more confident in your abilities. Also, 12-15 ft at Pavones is a lot different than 12-15ft East Coast beach break. The paddle out was a little tough, I found it akin to a big day at Assateague or St. Augustine. Once I was out though, I found it to be much more forgiving. The wave is so consistent that you pick up on its nuances pretty quickly. I found a 12 or 15 ft wave to be about the same as an 8ft wave once you were on it. The drop was just a little longer (and way more fun). Plus, getting pounded in 70-80 degree tropical water in board shorts is way less intimidating than getting pounded with all your rubber on. Call me crazy but I actually enjoy getting worked when it's warm.
Last edited by surfnut1018; Apr 25, 2011 at 03:01 PM.
Surfnut, i was there in late august and found the same. All breaks in the dominical area were too large and closing out so we took that trip. Solid 10-15 footers connecting from the point to the river mouth. Also the largest waves, most brutal beatings, and longest hold downs that I have experienced. The reward of a several second DOH barrel ride far outweighs the travel $, time, the 2 wave hold downs, the ragdolling and bouncing off the rocky bottom ... fo sho!
Yeah we did the same exact thing. We started in Dominical and then headed south for the swell. You must have had a different direction, we didn't see too many barrels. Even though there was some serious size, the wave was still slightly mushy. It held from about midway between the point and river mouth north to the beach front by the town. I rode a fish the whole time and absolutely had a blast. I could get into the waves early and just grove on down the line.
The day before the swell, some people were surfing little waist high peelers off the point and scoring some baby barrels though. It was way to crowded for me, but looked like a lot of fun. I highly recommend the trip to anyone, especially goofy footers, it's paradise!
the biggest waves I've ever surfed has probably been on the east coast (8-10)... biggest waves I've seen is definitely Puerto Escondido with Hawaii close second. I didn't want to have anything to do with 20ft++ Mex Pipe.
I would love to see pictures of what everyone is calling 15 feet.
So would I....didn't have a camera that day. To be fair, I didn't pull into anything I would call 15 ft. Biggest I got was probably in the 10-12ft range tops. I definitely looked up at the base and saw a lot of wave up there. The bigger sets were being picked off by some crazy Brazilians waiting outside...even they were cleaned out though by that monster set that came through
wb and you can find me at crystal and sweetwater and all over wb.
my biggest has had to have been defiently 10 ft maybe a little bigger. but ive been down in the dominican republic surfing and spending my spring break and its been about 4-6 ft and the breaks ive been surfing have been all reef or rock bottom and somewhat shallow. and well the biggest thing was that everyone out there even noticed i wasnt from there just cuz i was so comfortable in their surf just cuz the east coast is such a rough place to surf with how heavy it gets. and the locales here respected how i wasnt afraid to take off on the closeout shallow bombs just cuz im so comfortable in that kind of situation with surfing on the east coast.