as you progress & spend more time in the water, your threshold will increase & what used to be scary won't be anymore.
after a certain size, tho, i think that if you're not at least a little scared, then there's probably something wrong w/ you...
I'm not sure anymore what the biggest surf I have been in. As I get more comfortable it seems like the surf gets smaller in my estimation. So when I was 12 I was sure I had been in 18 foot surf. At 18 it had gone down to 15 foot. As I started to get fat and old it stuck around 14 foot. Now that I'm in pretty good shape and have been out in lot's of different conditions I am sure that the actual face size top to bottom might have been 10 foot. If I was to move to Hawaii I'll bet in 2 to 4 years I would look back at my NJ, MD days and re-estimate the size of those past waves at 6 foot max. Does this make sense?
yeaa 3-5 is playfull for me. 6-8 is my limit. went out in 12-15 once, **** my pants, and returned to the beach lol
Tha'ts exactly how I feel. Went out on a big day last spring, sat out there for a while with my heart absolutely pounding and dropped in on a monster, got crushed. Paddled right back in...always good to know your limits!
Augaholic, I'd call that 10-12ft. 15ft is a big f-ing wave, and i'd say my biggest wave i ever caught was something similar to this, or a foot or 2 smaller. It's not the size, but the amount of water (how heavy of a wave is) that frightens me. I'd go on a 13ft roller than a heaving 8ft wave anyday.
That being said, my perception (like zippy said, who i come to like more and more everyday) changes as i progress and get older. During Ernesto, the day before the perfect conditions (saturday i believe) I caught a solid wave in storm surf conditions, and was my only one of the day (I was fine with that, i was i think 15 at the time) and i'm guessing now it was probably 7ft. Hurricane bill, the day before the magical morning, (saturday again), I was out at around 5pm and It would break about a half mile out and would reform, I paddled out real far and caught a wave that made it all the way to the lineup that was still mostly white water, I stood up, dropped in, bottom turned, the thing jacked like hell, I pumped down the wave, and it started to barrel, and I was standing up in the barrel before it closed out on me. I think about that wave all the time, because i know if i didn't bottom turn and pumped the whole way i probably would of gotten spit out and consequently gotten the best ride of my life (damn). It was probably 8ft, and I get more humble about size everyday.
This thread has a lot to do with the afraid thread also, and the most scared I've ever been was when I went to Costa last april. It was solid 6-8ft the ten days I was there, and if you ever been to Hermosa you'll know its heavy as hell and closes out at around 7ft. Look at my photos on my profile, there actually from the day with the smallest surf the whole trip (around 5ft), and the most fun since it didn't close out. Sorry i don't have any pics from it was macking.
Augaholic, I'd call that 10-12ft. 15ft is a big f-ing wave
The dude is over 6 ft. I know him personally. Now imagine him standing straight up. Add another one on top now you got 12' I still see water above. This picture in particular was taken during Earl which produced 12'-15' in NJ. I'd say this one was around 13'-14'
Last edited by Aguaholic; Apr 26, 2011 at 12:50 AM.
The dude is over 6 ft. I know him personally. Now imagine him standing straight up. Add another one on top now you got 12' I still see water above. This picture in particular was taken during Earl which produced 12'-15'
sorry bud but its 10-12.... if that. you don't measure by the peron standing at the bottom. you measure either from the back of the wave or how high the drop is. thats not over 10, maybe 12 feet. still gotta give you props for dropping in on that. thats a gnarly shot
Probably 8 - 10 foot two years ago in OC. Late November Nor-Easter swell. Took me 20 minutes to get out. Then when i did, caught one wave 8-10 ft and paddled back out. Attempted to catch another bomb. When as soon as i got into the wave both f-ing legs cramped... all i could do is bear hug my board and hold my damn breath.... washed up on shore. contemplated going back out... went home instead.