Only picture from when it was big on my last day of my Costa trip last April. Just managed to get over this one. This is at Playa Terezas, the northern most break at Hermosa, where all the surf companies have houses. It was the smallest place in hermosa, but it was so heavy. This wave is a lot bigger and heavier than it looks. It was breaking below sea level and suck up everything in sight. I'd say this is a 8ft wave. Stoked I got over this wave
late summer 1995 South Shore Oahu....."biggest south swell in 25 years" or so said the cover of Surfer Mag. Waikiki was absolutely huge. I surfed from China Walls to Diamond Head for the first couple days. Once the swell hit 8-10, that was it for me. When it hit 12-14, it was insane.
I heard stories of Duke taking one wave from Diamond Head to Sand Island. Never thought it was possible until I saw this swell.
Biggest day for me was probably Bawa, Sumatra. Nothing huge but solid waves that were well overhead idk maybe 8-10. Cant say i surfed it that well either...Couple pix of average sized waves (some were a lot bigger and scared the crap outta me) from that day:
This is better than TV.
yeah right hahahahaha im real into these stories.Originally Posted by whit
This is better than TV.
[QUOTE=mitchell;95555]Biggest day for me was probably Bawa, Sumatra. Nothing huge but solid waves that were well overhead idk maybe 8-10. Cant say i surfed it that well either...Couple pix of average sized waves (some were a lot bigger and scared the crap outta me) from that day:
Great pics man. im heading to indo in the fall and this just got me even more excited.
Turning towards the beach actually puts you in a worse situation. Here, you have to do what the guy on the far left is doing... Get deep early and get ready for impact. You usually get smashed down pretty hard on impact, then the board get ripped from your possesion, then the water sucks you straight back up... When you are lucky, you get one last gasp of air as the cycle pulls you from the sea floor back up behind the wave..... Usually you are holding your breath for about 15 seconds and if your board is still attached its a miracle.... But the worst case scenerio in my opinion is when the water detonates in front of you... Its one thing if you get under the lip and then get shredded, but once that wall explodes, it turns into a freight train across the top of the water and about 10 feet below. And it just shreds you like a ragdoll. The 10 foot wall then feels like a tsunami.... Just rips you limb from limb.... But basically what do you do in that scenario? At first you ask god why on earth you are even out there.... Then you scrape as close to it as you can, and then at the last second, when you realize its too late and you are fu**ed, you just duck dive as far down as you can, and go limp.... Limp is the best way to handle it...Just let it do its thing. Dont fight it.... Just pray.
Its gonna be trip of a lifetime for sure! We went in the fall as well...
first two from Bawa, third from Lagundri Bay, Nias
You guys have some great shots! This is much better than surfer magazine... I prefer to hear about 'normal' dudes scoring good waves
the biggest wave was this fat's chick's thighs I went surfing in last winter...
I almost never made it out alive....
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