Despite of what the forcasts were sayin, 2ft med period east swell ... today was absolutly sick! The break I surfed is a well known break with me and one other bud out. Waist to head reeling lefts, and barrels galore. Surfed 4 hrs and am beat. Hope some others scored today I know I did!
yeah I went out at first light this morning up until around 8 and it was sweet. WAAAAAYY better than I expected. I don't know if I saw anything head high, but def. a few at least chest high peaks. Fun morning for sure - always nice to get a pleasant surprise!
it was fun i agree. if the sun was out all day, and it got to 70 degrees like it has been most days i would have used the 3/2. very fun, but i brought a longboard because i assumed with the forecast it would be more appropriate for longboard. was about waist high. still fun. not crowded at all at an otherwise crowded break.