I've only encountered one large shark in NJ while surfing. About 8 foot. My buddy was taping us surfing so we have it on video somewhere. It was followinng baitfish, and seemed to care less about us surfing.
I spent a week in FL suring, and saw 3 while surfing.
3 springs ago I was surfing and this 3-4 foot dogfish, or brown shark came straight at me like a torpedo and ran smack into my leg. I screamed like a &!tch and headed straight in. It was obviously chasing something and I got in its way. Took me like a solid 20 to calm down wipe my pants and get back in the water. The 2 guys who were probably 50 yards north of me got out when they heard me scream. It took them less time to get back in.
if a shark wants to bite you, you won't see it until it's too late so relax. ignorance is bliss yo
This is true as can be. One time this past fall I was out by myself and something nudged the tail of my board hard enough to give me a slight whiplash. I immediately looked backed and all I saw was where the water had been disturbed. Never saw the thing. I just stayed as calm as I could given the circumstance and sat there as still as possible. I finally got the balls to continue my sesh, but if he wanted me he could have and I would have never known it. So just keep a sharp eye out but if it's your time well it's just your time