Learning to surf is one thing, LEARN THE OCEAN!!! And whenever you get outta line, mother nature will slap your a$$ back in line, don't worry! I learned on a short board, but I agree with the rest of the guys, a long board will help a lot! Don't surf near the big groups of guys, it will pi$$ people off! Go down the beach a little just out of the crowd. If you go by yourself, don't hide your keys under your car bumper. Most wetsuits have a small pocket on the inside. Oh, and don't take offense to guys bustin your balls on here! Good luck
I've got access to an 8 footer, its a little longer but not sure the inches. its not a fatty fun board but I'm sure it will suffice. ill go get my **** together on that as per the recommendations of ya'll then start shredding on my board as I get comfortable.
back to the booties.. recs for a new guy? 3mm round toe excels for 35, or should I splurge and grab something better?
Starting on a longer board will help TO A POINT. If your intent is to surf shortboards as you progress, habits you learn on a log will hurt you if you stay on one for too long. The biggest thing is learning how to pump the wave which you will need riding a shortboard in our surf.
You may also want to just practice catching a wave or two on the board without trying to pop up. Feel the board with your whole body. How does it react to the wave, where is the center of gravity. Don't be afraid to ride it like a body board a few times. You need to feel the board falling away from your body.
hey im phil, im using my brothers account bc i wanted to reply to this thread. but anyway. I am just starting to and i bought a 7'6" nsp. i cant get up i have been out about a dozen times now and cant ride except on my stomach. How do i get up? everytime i stand up the board topples over and my bro cant help me be he is away at college. What should i do?
I agree with all of the above. But, if you were completely dead set on not riding a huge board, you could go the big man's fish route and get a 6'10''-7'3'' fish that is wide and thick with a lot more stablility than a short board. It would probably turn a bit better than a fun board too. There's some cheap ones out there...boneyard surfboards (connected with mahady surfboards) has some neat stuff. You could always get a local shaper to make you a solid beginners board for around $500-600 too.
I can say that from personal experience, you need to get a bigger board. Say a bigger funboard board to start up on, or even a log. When i was learning, my friend kept telling me that i was good to learn on a shortboard, and that only people who ride shortboards get the waves. But he basically screwed me over with that little lesson. I suffered many a day with that dreadful walk up the beach on a packed summer day knowing that everyone is looking at me saying " what a kook......." Then i went out and got a 7'0 Funfish from WRV (7'0x23.5x2.75) and started to actually learn how it felt to ride a wave. It takes time to gain that knowledge of how the wave forms/breaks, where the peak is, how far inside or outside the wave is going to peel.
Now i ride a 6'3 Valeric, and a 5'10 Pride and love them to death. I haven't had that horrific walk of shame back up the beach in a long time. Its amazing how much an extra foot on a board will help you.
Take you time and like everyone else said......Watch watch watch. I can't tell you how many times i've watched loose change, September Sessions, and especially All The Hype, since it's primarily an east coast wave movie.
Grab an indo board, and a stak of surf movies.