Ginsu, you just made me sick with those pics! HA HA Good luck on the recovery dude!
Yankee, I think you guys did the right thing by getting the hell outta there!

Ginsu, you just made me sick with those pics! HA HA Good luck on the recovery dude!
Yankee, I think you guys did the right thing by getting the hell outta there!
Don't make this dumb mistake! It was mid June in OC, my girlfriend just showed up for the summer. Although an over head powerful storm swell just arrived with walls thick enough to crush boards just had to make it out to the lineup. The Bch patrol were only allowing surfers out if they were dumb enough. The current and undertow was treacherous over the sand bar waiting for lulls in the sets. I was just about over the backside of the bar when the next set was rolling in. So paddled like hell to the shoulder to avoid the impact of the A frame. I was still just a little to far inside, as I poped up, the wall pick up the stick slid it down the wave face while the curl rolled me faced first on the deck of my Frye. I hit so hard it knock me semi conscious floating up and under the foam. Another surfer caught inside rolled me on his board so I wouldn't drown. He shot the board toward the beach where I fell off on the sand and blacked out. I don't how long it was, paramedics were called and used smelling salt on me wake me up. I was still in state of shock, covered in blood, then jumped up ran down the beach looking for my board. The medics chassed me and tackled me as I was puking blood all over myself. They loaded me in the ambulance and off to Salisbury Hospital. The impact, knock out 1 tooth, split my lip down the middle, my chin was opened up like a can opener and my nose was shattered. The deck of the Frye had imprint of my face crushed over an inch into the foam as it was easily repaired over the surgery to repair my face the following winter.
mines idiotic. drifted too far out during a hurricane swell and started lazily paddling back in. take about 20 strokes before i hear the faint sound of a feathering lip behind me. just as i look back i get sucked up the face and over the falls. don't get a good breath and practically drown. worst of all it was early in the sesh and i never really recovered and missed out on one of the best days of the year. lame...
These stories are sick! ..dam! Mine isnt bad.. but jut the norm of getting held under.. allmost drowning with no board... smashing my face into the board etc etc.. broken nose.. Seeing a dolphin fin and freeking the **** out
Sitting on the Outside at Soup Bowl, Barbados, the "Mutant Sets" were coming in easily at double overhead from a big February North Swell. Every wave looked like you could fit a truck inside of the tube. I had been surfing a few hours already and the swell had picked up size significantly since earlier in the morning. My most recent wave had sent me over the falls and onto the reef, shattering my wrist watch. Shooken up pretty bad, I paddled to stay with the six other guys out in the lineup. My arms were noodles and had no life left in them. The rip was so strong, the only way in was to catch a wave. We would sit further in, in hopes of catching a sweet 8ft tube. But, every 15 minutes or so, whistles could be heard from locals on the beach....looking North, could see the monster set waves breaking off the point. At this point, everyone starts to "Paddle to Africa", as the locals say, to make sure the cleanup didn't swallow you.
It felt like it took forever to catch that last wave. Much respect for the Soup Bowl and those guys who charge it even on the largest of swells!