That was def a hell moment. Not that I enjoyed the horror, but you brought it to life that's for sure.After reading some of these posts I had to chime in with my OH SH!T moment. I surfed throughout my childhood and teenage years after high school I went to a landlocked university and reluctantly gave up surfing for several years. After college I got heavily into sponging, body surfing with fins during the redflaggers and a few years later surfing. So as I was just getting back into surfing in 2009 I decided to take a trip with my wife to Cabo San Lucas. I didn’t know anyone down there and have a lot of respect for local knowledge so I decided to book a surfing excursion to utilize locals as opposed to bringing a board and jumping in. So I booked the excursion for Friday 10-16-2009 at Old Man’s, a perfect cobblestone bottom point break with a channel cut by a stream that acted like a conveyerbelt for the paddle out. Nearly every wave broke at the same exact spot giving a short punchy left hander or a long peeling right until you got to the channel. On Friday the surf was 3-5 feet and insanely perfect for me and almost to big to run the surf school only a few people caught waves on the shoulder not at the peak of the point. I caught a ton of waves the instructors giving me props the whole time. Well needless to say I was super excited and booked another surf excursion for Sunday. The forecast was calling for 5-7 feet Hurricane Rick was predicted to stay a cat 1 about 1000 miles dues south no worries. Well Sunday morning rolls around and the forecast is still calling for 5-7 feet I get to the surf spot the instructors say it is to big to run the surf school but I could still go out. So I grab the 9’6 longboard they brought for me and paddle right past 2 other guys knee deep in the surf scoping it out. Dumb move! I did not take time to see what was going on and I would later **** myself for being so hasty. Well I ended up paddling out by dumb luck during a lull in the sets, even so the waves were at least 2wice the size they were 2 days before but still not breaking out in the channel. There was about 15 or so people out at the point so I got in line a little to the outside to wait for a wave. 5 or so minutes go by and I see a wall way out on the horizon, everyone in the lineup immediately turns and shags ass to try and make it past the first breaker, I paddle my ass off and realize I’m not gonna make past the break so I look behind me no ones there so I ditch and dive under the wave it grabs the board and ragdolls me underwater for a solid 15 seconds I break the surface and continue to take another 4 waves on the head. I am now thinking that was by no means a 7 foot wave it was much bigger. At this point I am tired so I paddle waaayyyy outside into the channel where I figure I can catch my breath. The sets keep rolling in and getting bigger by the set. Then I see a set way out in the distance that looks like its gonna break in the channel at that time one of the surf instructors Roberto gets out to me and say its waayyyy to big and we need to go in. This wave was a F@cking monster the fear I felt when I saw it breaking outside us is indescribable. We both ditch our boards and dive under it, and take another 3 waves after, although they had broken far out and were white wash by the time they got to us. After the set Roberto says to me it never breaks this far out in the channel and it is definitely over 10 feet. We paddle our asses off toward shore only to get nearly broke in 2 by a shore pound close out. I got back into shore after this 2 hour ordeal exhausted and listening to the locals talk about how big it is and they haven’t seen it like this in a decade and that it is well over DO. I got back to the all inclusive we stayed at and immediately went to the bar, then my room to check the buoys, they had upped the forecast on surfline to 15-18 feet by days end and the cat 1 hurricane was now a cat 5 175mph sustained 600 miles due south moving north. Later that evening we took a booze cruise to lovers point on a 300 person partyboat. They captain would not leave the harbor because to surf was “extremely large and dangerous” all I did was chuckle.
See the article in the link below I still can’t believe I went out in it.
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May 25, 2011, 04:15 PM #20