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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Delaware
    Posts
    864
    Ginsu, you just made me sick with those pics! HA HA Good luck on the recovery dude!

    Yankee, I think you guys did the right thing by getting the hell outta there!

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Rehoboth
    Posts
    268
    Don't make this dumb mistake! It was mid June in OC, my girlfriend just showed up for the summer. Although an over head powerful storm swell just arrived with walls thick enough to crush boards just had to make it out to the lineup. The Bch patrol were only allowing surfers out if they were dumb enough. The current and undertow was treacherous over the sand bar waiting for lulls in the sets. I was just about over the backside of the bar when the next set was rolling in. So paddled like hell to the shoulder to avoid the impact of the A frame. I was still just a little to far inside, as I poped up, the wall pick up the stick slid it down the wave face while the curl rolled me faced first on the deck of my Frye. I hit so hard it knock me semi conscious floating up and under the foam. Another surfer caught inside rolled me on his board so I wouldn't drown. He shot the board toward the beach where I fell off on the sand and blacked out. I don't how long it was, paramedics were called and used smelling salt on me wake me up. I was still in state of shock, covered in blood, then jumped up ran down the beach looking for my board. The medics chassed me and tackled me as I was puking blood all over myself. They loaded me in the ambulance and off to Salisbury Hospital. The impact, knock out 1 tooth, split my lip down the middle, my chin was opened up like a can opener and my nose was shattered. The deck of the Frye had imprint of my face crushed over an inch into the foam as it was easily repaired over the surgery to repair my face the following winter.

  3. #23
    mines idiotic. drifted too far out during a hurricane swell and started lazily paddling back in. take about 20 strokes before i hear the faint sound of a feathering lip behind me. just as i look back i get sucked up the face and over the falls. don't get a good breath and practically drown. worst of all it was early in the sesh and i never really recovered and missed out on one of the best days of the year. lame...

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Howell
    Posts
    127
    Images
    10
    Quote Originally Posted by dirtythirty34 View Post
    is this real life?
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=txqiwrbYGrs

  5. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by goofy footer View Post
    Don't make this dumb mistake! It was mid June in OC, my girlfriend just showed up for the summer. Although an over head powerful storm swell just arrived with walls thick enough to crush boards just had to make it out to the lineup. The Bch patrol were only allowing surfers out if they were dumb enough. The current and undertow was treacherous over the sand bar waiting for lulls in the sets. I was just about over the backside of the bar when the next set was rolling in. So paddled like hell to the shoulder to avoid the impact of the A frame. I was still just a little to far inside, as I poped up, the wall pick up the stick slid it down the wave face while the curl rolled me faced first on the deck of my Frye. I hit so hard it knock me semi conscious floating up and under the foam. Another surfer caught inside rolled me on his board so I wouldn't drown. He shot the board toward the beach where I fell off on the sand and blacked out. I don't how long it was, paramedics were called and used smelling salt on me wake me up. I was still in state of shock, covered in blood, then jumped up ran down the beach looking for my board. The medics chassed me and tackled me as I was puking blood all over myself. They loaded me in the ambulance and off to Salisbury Hospital. The impact, knock out 1 tooth, split my lip down the middle, my chin was opened up like a can opener and my nose was shattered. The deck of the Frye had imprint of my face crushed over an inch into the foam as it was easily repaired over the surgery to repair my face the following winter.
    My leg no longer hurts.....

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    152
    Quote Originally Posted by goofy footer View Post
    The deck of the Frye had imprint of my face crushed over an inch into the foam as it was easily repaired over the surgery to repair my face the following winter.
    shoulda put some color into the imprint before repairing it. That would be a pretty sweet little remembrance/design for your board.

  7. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by DaMook View Post
    that looks like my leg!!
    Parallel universe

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Lavallette
    Posts
    198
    These stories are sick! ..dam! Mine isnt bad.. but jut the norm of getting held under.. allmost drowning with no board... smashing my face into the board etc etc.. broken nose.. Seeing a dolphin fin and freeking the **** out

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Bethany Beach, DE
    Posts
    136
    Images
    10
    Quote Originally Posted by Stranded in Smithfield View Post
    Climbing down a 30 meter cliff with a board to surf a freight train left point on a shallow reef. It was my 30th B-day weekend and I wanted to dodge the crowds and do something epic. Even at a few feet overhead I wanted no part of the sets on the point. Injury meant re-climbing the cliff or a mile paddle to the nearest inhabited beach. Only an hour or so before dark. The ocean goes from the deepest point in the world to a reef covered by maybe two foot of water. I catch a few waves sitting just down from the point and then BUMP. For a moment I was too scared to look down. No way that just happened. No way I just saw what I think I just saw. Please tell me that was a coral head and not a submerged dorsal fin and a tail I just cruise by. Not sure... had reef booties on. Scan the water surface...nothing. Do a shallow duck dive and look around.. nothing. Wait. The reef is fairly flat. Don't even care what the next wave is looking like... closeout...deathpit... whatever ...I'm on it. Probably the fastest I've ever paddled in my life. Scrapping fins or stepping on urchins I was getting out of the water fast. Watch from the beach...nothing. Get lost in the jungle trying to find my way back to the trail up the cliff make it up as the last rays of sun are fading. Not sure what to believe I had to go back the next day and do it again. I'm not one to spook easily. Surfed it no problem as the swell was dieing. Talking to a local a short time later he was surprised I surfed there. Turns out just off the reef is a favorite spearfishing spot and quote "sharky as hell".
    dude I seriously read this on the edge of my seat. nice spooky element to it. everyone has their "sharky" moment whether it be all mental or for real.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    The City
    Posts
    19
    Sitting on the Outside at Soup Bowl, Barbados, the "Mutant Sets" were coming in easily at double overhead from a big February North Swell. Every wave looked like you could fit a truck inside of the tube. I had been surfing a few hours already and the swell had picked up size significantly since earlier in the morning. My most recent wave had sent me over the falls and onto the reef, shattering my wrist watch. Shooken up pretty bad, I paddled to stay with the six other guys out in the lineup. My arms were noodles and had no life left in them. The rip was so strong, the only way in was to catch a wave. We would sit further in, in hopes of catching a sweet 8ft tube. But, every 15 minutes or so, whistles could be heard from locals on the beach....looking North, could see the monster set waves breaking off the point. At this point, everyone starts to "Paddle to Africa", as the locals say, to make sure the cleanup didn't swallow you.

    It felt like it took forever to catch that last wave. Much respect for the Soup Bowl and those guys who charge it even on the largest of swells!