LOGIN | REGISTER

Results 1 to 9 of 9
  1. #1

    95% of us should read Lost Treasure

    \"And then I realized that experienced surfers have it backwards: we’re the kooks—because apparently, the longer you surf, and the better waves you surf, the bigger of a d*ck you become.\"


    With so much hostility in the crowded line up during the summer it really kills the spirit of why I like getting wet and almost dread going to my local line up.

    Everyone should read this and make it a point to relax and have some fun. There will always be another wave...

    http://www.surfermag.com/blogs/rob-gilley/
    Last edited by NJstylee; Jun 14, 2011 at 09:48 PM.

  2. #2

    Thumbs up

    great find and soo true!

  3. #3

    why not 100% ??

    A great reminder of what it's all about. More Aloha/ Less Bull****.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Brick
    Posts
    192
    I completely agree, its about sharing the ocean, especially when there are only 2 of you out on a very mediocre day and 1 guy wants to paddle for everything like he is in a heat - for example (after many prior instances) paddle across the back of you as you are going for a wave and claims that he popped up before you - then finding out that the kooks fin peirced your board. Karma is a b*tch and it will come back around in some way.

    Real surfers know etiqutte exemplifying it in the ocean and is out to have a good time with whoever else is out there, not battle like they are in a contest (especially if they aren't even good). We are all out to enjoy the same thing, so don't be a d*ck - enjoy the sport, don't ruin it for everyone else. There is a lot more to surfing than just catching waves.

  5. #5
    Kook is another great book

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Atlantic Ocean
    Posts
    261
    is it a chapter book?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Monmouth Beach, NJ
    Posts
    2,316
    I don't necessarily agree... It may be true for some, but not for all. I think it's more like a bell curve: Beginners are generally not d*cks. But then as they get better, maybe even begin to compete, it goes to their head and they become a$$holes. Then as they age, and have less to "prove" (to others, but mostly to themselves) they start to mellow out again. I've met a few old school pros, and some of them are just as soulful and grateful and generous as you can get (Greg Noll, Gerry Lopez, Rob Machado). Others... not so much (I'll leave these names out).

    But that's just for some. For others... well... my philosophy has always been, "you're either a d*ck or your not," meaning some people just never get it. But let's face it... 9 d*cks out of 10 are wannabes... er, I mean... "aspiring pros." But then I guess if you make surfing your job, it takes on new meaning.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    In a state of flux
    Posts
    2,976
    beginners aren't kooks, they are just stupid. It's when they stay stupid as they progress is what makes a kook. the key phase in the whole blog was "do you mind if we surf here?' That shows respect right off the bat, not some sense of entitlement that many mid-atlantic summer surfers seem to have.

  9. It is good mind

    it is better topic