Quote Originally Posted by Surferdann View Post
Try taking a longboard out on an overhead day. WAY better than a shortboard..although scary as hell at times when you get caught inside.
About 15 years ago, right after I moved into the area where I now live, a big swell came... almost doh on the outside peaks and solid 8ft on the INSIDE... remarkably clean for the size, but it was first light, and nobody out. At the time, all I had was an 8'0 triple stringer mini log because I had recently broken my shortboard. It was either take out "Frankenstein" or don't surf. So I attempt to paddle out the first time and don't even make it out... I get pounded wave after wave, and end up drifting the entire length of the beach. I get out, walk back up the beach, and try it again. I finally make it out, and I'm sitting on the outside and I say to myself, "I do NOT belong out here on this board." A few minutes later a set comes and I go for it... barely make the drop, bottom turn and go straight down the line... flying... race it into the inside section and a huge, overhead bowl section starts to suck up ahead of me. I take the fastest trim line I can find, and pull in... I feel the board... a triple stringer... flexing under my feet as the curve of the barrel warps up and over me. Deep inside a spinning tube, foam chunks flying over my head... I exit smoothly, straighten out toward the beach, and go home. One and done.