Hey just a few questions for anybody that wants to answer, I just started surfing well attempting anyways, i took a lesson and got the basic idea of it and i know that i should be starting out with a longboard or fun board but i got a free 6,8 ci short board just had to glass the nose back on, i have used it once and didn't really accomplish anything yet, i know i just need to keep practicing but my question is will i be able to progress with it or am i just wasting my time? i would love to buy the proper board but laid off right now and need to save money, and is there anything i can do to help with like balance? oh and i am about 5'10 175lbs thanks
If thats all you have right now then make the best of it.I learned on a 6'6.If you do happen to land a job get yourself a longboard even if its used.You can always use it when its small out there.Surfing takes time so be patient.Watch vids,read books,and watch others.
Just stick with it if thats all you have. It will be frustrating and take a while to get the hang of it but it will come eventually. If you get any opportunity to ride a longboard either renting, buying or just borrowing one definitely do it. It will help the learning process a lot and even just a couple sessions on a longboard will help when you go back to the shortboard.
If you really want to surf then just keep at it and it will come in time, and remember the only thing that matters out there is that you are having fun.
I always think the best thing a beginner can do is relax. New surfers almost always have a very stiff posture and look like thier muscles are always tight when they are up and riding. Being too stiff makes it hard to adjust your weight and to keep balance.
You will be fine on a shortboard. I never owned a longboard until i had been surfing for like 7 years. Going from short to longboard is the easiest thing in the world to do. But not all longboarders can grab a shortboard and do it up. SO I would stick with the shortboard. In the end, you will be much better, much faster. Eventually grab a longboard, just because it will suit certain waves better... But if you can get decent on a shortboard, you will fee like a true king when you step on a bigger stick...
Just stick with it and learn on the shortboard... The problem is that your good days of surf wil be few and far between, so get on it when the waves are 2-4 feet or so. That is perfect beginner shortboard waves.... Just stick with it... Its hard as he** at first, but you can shortboard a knee high shorebreak closeout. And once you master that, you are already way ahead of the curve.
definitely watch as many vids as possible. Pay attention to foot placement, when and where they lean, etc. The big picture is what counts but doing the little things right will help a ton. And don't get discouraged, worst thing you can do. You can only be a beginner once so enjoy it!
Like most of the guys have said. Just keep at it. Study every video, watch other surfers. swim, work your core big time. Its really where its at. Paddle paddle paddle and get strong. Practice good surf etiquete. that will get you far in the lineup. Dont just stand straight up. thats most peoples problem. Stay low... do the hulla. Try your friends boards. Most guys I surf with will work constantly on one board for a long time then change over. I pretty much ride a fish but its fun to change up with a heavier board and work the arms and diffferent turining patterns.
I agree with most of the others - it is about water time - surfing has a steep learning curve - that's why I suggest you keep the shortboard, but put it aside, and get a used longboard beater - then you'll be in the water a lot more time, given the crap that's been rolling in - after you get more water time on the long board and get a little more comfortable, learn how to drop in on somebody (kidding), but learn the rules of the road, then try out the shortboard again. You'll prob want both.
I was reading the new surfer mag the other day and caught the article about "Surf with the Pro's" where people drop big $ to go on Indo trips with Rasta and Shane Dorian. It all boiled down to 3 basic tips that apply to 98% of non-pro surfers-
1. Stay low on the board.
2. Widen your stance
3. Probably the most surprising to hear from those guys- Ride a bigger board and get your wave count up.