So, I am surfing yesterday, about chest to head high, not too crowded. Mid day, windswell, peaky afternoon. I got a handful of decent waves... I am finally in perfect position for the best set wave of the day... Take off on a perfect wedgy left... It Had quite a wall on it, so my intentions were to take off on a nice fast, high line, get around the walled up section with a cutback and continue on from there.... So as Im taking off, some tourista surfer had blown the wave ahead of me on some fun shape egg and was in the flats paddling right towards the face, right into my line, so I stall out on the face, making eye contact with the guy, so I have to drop straight down and take a super deep bottom turn, thus losing all my speed and basically followed him back up the wave face as he ducked through it... Im bummed, cause im on the best wave of the day, losing speed, heading up the face, so I slam on the breaks, reposition to go down the line because ive lost all my juice at this point, and BAM!!! Barrel time... Because this dude blew my line and made me slow down, I pulled under what I thought was a closeout wall and I was right in the slot... I came out clean and got a couple more turns... called it a day... I was tempted to go back out and thank him for being a donkey...
First time I can say that someone ruining my wave resulted in a perfectly good barrel.... Only barrel I saw all day too... Thank you blind tourista Surfer who I almost ran over.... You made my day and you dont even know it.... I understand that I will probably never encounter a positive result from almost running over a tourist, but man, I really thought that time as we know it might come to a halt.
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Thread: NEWS: Tourists Give You Barrels!
Jul 31, 2011, 04:19 AM #1
- Join Date
- Jan 2009
- Hilton Head Island - OB, SD
NEWS: Tourists Give You Barrels!