What if guy 2 dies next year and has missed many mediocre sessions because hes chasing greenbacks. I guess theres a happy medium.YOu gotta work but I gotta surf any time i get the chance. Everyone has a priority list but you cant have all work and no play. Lifes to short.
I broke my neck while surfing some waiste high surf at low tide. I was struggling to keep my head above water after my neck broke.
Holy hell, man ...glad your alright. I got a little freaked out last week when i pulled a cutback and lost it and went head first into the water...it wasn't very deep and I nailed my forehead on the bottom. Luckily, the little bit of water did slow me down enough so I didn't break my damn neck, but it was a close one.
@ Wallysurf - thanks, I am good and (knock on wood) now cancer free. Sorry to hear about your experience. And, I am guy#3..... did what jackson said to do: picked a school near the beach (college of charleston) and surfed as much as I could b/w classes. The older I get the more I find that life in general IS All About Balance. It's the yin and yang of things.
My Balance is out of whack right now from the lack of waves.
Good conversation I was Guy #1, Guy #2, & Guy #3. #1. I went to college but avoided a serious job because I wanted to surf... got fired some but mostly just drifted from job to job. I wanted to use my degree to teach just not in any crappy (inland) schools. Worse part is I was living in VB! What the hell was I thinking... not gonna surf a lot anyway. Eventually drifted around NC & at age 25 was still living in my parents house while being a high school security guard. Needless to say chicks didn't take me seriously. #2. I took a good teaching job inland an hour and 45 minutes from surf where I had to develop the schools curriculum from scratch to start an AP program. No one else wanted to take the job and they were desperate because school was starting in 3 days. I busted my tail to repay their faith in me and surfed very little during 10 months out of the year. I still got some of the macking swells because school would close for hurricane's flooding rains and Nor'easter's snow as well as surf trips every summer. #3. Being Guy #2 was cool but guy #3 finds the ultimate balance. I took the padded resume and now I live on a beach in a consistent corner of the world with easy access to many 5 star surfing destinations. I surf everyday I want and teach easy hours 8-3 with 3 1/2 hours off mid day every other day. No kids yet so the wife and I can be selfish but it will soon come to an end I'm sure. O well get it while you can. Remember how hard we were cheering on the \"Should I go\" forum for the young buck to move out to Cali.