"WORKday" Surf

[ihatelongboarders]

sending this thread to all your bosses. you're all in troubleee

[soulrebel]

What if guy 2 dies next year and has missed many mediocre sessions because hes chasing greenbacks. I guess theres a happy medium.YOu gotta work but I gotta surf any time i get the chance. Everyone has a priority list but you cant have all work and no play. Lifes to short.

[Koki Barrels]

I broke my neck while surfing some waiste high surf at low tide. I was struggling to keep my head above water after my neck broke.

Holy hell, man ...glad your alright. I got a little freaked out last week when i pulled a cutback and lost it and went head first into the water...it wasn't very deep and I nailed my forehead on the bottom. Luckily, the little bit of water did slow me down enough so I didn't break my damn neck, but it was a close one.

[pkovo]

@ Wallysurf - thanks, I am good and (knock on wood) now cancer free. Sorry to hear about your experience. And, I am guy#3..... did what jackson said to do: picked a school near the beach (college of charleston) and surfed as much as I could b/w classes. The older I get the more I find that life in general IS All About Balance. It's the yin and yang of things.

My Balance is out of whack right now from the lack of waves.

[wang]

My Balance is out of whack right now from the lack of waves.

I hear ya brotha

[ND081]

My Balance is out of whack right now from the lack of waves.

just another reason to take off monday

[mOtion732]

Take off Monday for what? Knee high nothing?

[ND081]

Take off Monday for what? Knee high nothing?

oh **** what is this the forecast changed. last time i checked it was still chest high. well that sucks

[wang]

@ m0tion732:

sorry, I might have been a little harsh w/ the "Epic Fail" comment. What ever trips ya trigga.

[Stranded in Smithfield]

Good conversation I was Guy #1, Guy #2, & Guy #3.
#1. I went to college but avoided a serious job because I wanted to surf... got fired some but mostly just drifted from job to job. I wanted to use my degree to teach just not in any crappy (inland) schools. Worse part is I was living in VB! What the hell was I thinking... not gonna surf a lot anyway. Eventually drifted around NC & at age 25 was still living in my parents house while being a high school security guard. Needless to say chicks didn't take me seriously.
#2. I took a good teaching job inland an hour and 45 minutes from surf where I had to develop the schools curriculum from scratch to start an AP program. No one else wanted to take the job and they were desperate because school was starting in 3 days. I busted my tail to repay their faith in me and surfed very little during 10 months out of the year. I still got some of the macking swells because school would close for hurricane's flooding rains and Nor'easter's snow as well as surf trips every summer.
#3. Being Guy #2 was cool but guy #3 finds the ultimate balance. I took the padded resume and now I live on a beach in a consistent corner of the world with easy access to many 5 star surfing destinations. I surf everyday I want and teach easy hours 8-3 with 3 1/2 hours off mid day every other day. No kids yet so the wife and I can be selfish but it will soon come to an end I'm sure. O well get it while you can. Remember how hard we were cheering on the \"Should I go\" forum for the young buck to move out to Cali.