So I work a pretty lame shift and have plenty of time on my hands. In your guys opinion which is your favorite or best surf book out there and why? Just looking for some good surf material to kill time.
Pipe Dreams by Kelly Slater is a surprisingly decent read. On A Wave by Thad Ziolkowski is an excellent coming of age story about growing up in the Melbourne Beach, FL, surf community in the 1970's (my generation ). And as span1 states, Eddie Would Go is one of the best! You might also try In Search of Captain Zero by Weisbecker - it is good read, too.
Ditto the Weisbecker book entitled In Search of Captain Zero. Saltwater Buddha is thoughtful, interesting & all-around superb. Surf Is Where You Find It by Gerry Lopez is timeless in many aspects & very well-written.
Check out Zero Break, a compilation of surf writing edited by Matt Warsaw. Lots of articles and exerpts from longer books. I found it to be an excellent jumping off point. There is fiction and nonfiction by a lot of authors--from Captain Cook and Jack London up to the present.
All For a Few Perfect Waves (the Dora Stroy) is also a good read. Lots of insight on surfings most famous (or infamous) character.
Weisbecker is good reading, too, speaking of 'characters.'
"The Wave." By Susan Casey, alternates between hydro physics and a godlike treatment of Laird and Likel. The best line in the book is "All physical phenomena are waves. The universe is constructed of waves. And let me tell you why. It's craziness!"- Al Osborne (physicist) in Susan Casey's book "The Wave." pg. 77
so think beyond ocean waves and sooner rather than later you'll begin to understand the patterned chaos that is our natural world.
I have a Copy of: Great Surfing by John Severson, 1967. Includes probably the most famous surfing photo of all time; Greg Noll (the Bull) faces the Pipeline, Hawaii by Severson. Pictures & interviews of the "Duke" (the real one).
What are you looking for in "surfing literature?" Surf fiction (novels), surf history, surf culture, how-to/non-fiction, contemporary surf stories ("reality" writing), or just plain good surf literature?