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Thread: Good Surf Books

  1. #31
    I guess it doesn't really fit with what you're really lookig for (to the OP), but Yvon Chouinard's (the founder of Patagonia) "Let My People Go Surfing" is an incredibly interesting read. Probably one of the best book's I've ever read.

  2. #32
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    so it seems warshaw is an opinionated subjective,shallow,factually incorrect hack,but he's all we've got,when without him leaves only the nat young stuff,which is like a million times worse

  3. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by beachbreak View Post
    so it seems warshaw is an opinionated subjective,shallow,factually incorrect hack,but he's all we've got,when without him leaves only the nat young stuff,which is like a million times worse
    Well... I did qualify it with "best place for a large view of things." It is exhaustive and comprehensive. Nonetheless, the bar is set a little higher for books labeled dictionaries, encyclopedias and histories. Warshaw is a decent fellow based upon my personal experience. It is up to me to now send in some suggestions so they can be considered for future editions.

  4. #34
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    has anyone read Transcendental memories of a surf Rebel? the mike hynson bio book. i read a chapter in the surfers journal a couple months ago, the chapter about him smuggling drugs in boards, seemed interesting.

  5. #35
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    On a somewhat unrelated note, does anyone here write about their own experiences? I personally would most enjoy reading the stories of people to whom I can relate more closely. Greg Noll and Gerry Lopez have some amazing tales, but so do many of the people here. I can see why most of us would hesitate to share our stuff on here, but I would really enjoy that type of thing. Maybe a separate forum section dedicated to that specifically? Maybe it's a dead end, but to me it sounds cool enough to suggest...

  6. #36
    Fiction, surf culture:
    Nunn, Kem. Tapping the Source (based in Huntington Beach); The Dogs of Winter (based in the Pacific Northwest); and, Tijuana Straits (based along the border of Calif. and Mexico)

    Not a novel but full of surfing history and culture from the past, excerpts from famous writings:

    The Kem Nunn books are surf noir classic. Tapping the Source is allegedly the originations of "Point Break." Tijuana Straits is an amazing read with some of the sickest characters imaginable. Dogs of Winter is my personal favorite of his books. This takes place deep in the red triangle and is a complex web of dark characters and redemption, with surfing as the anchor of the book.

    On another note, All for a Few Perfect Waves was a great read, yeah at points the reader is absolutely disgusted with Dora. The book itself is engaging and easy to read and provides insight into early Malibu and Dora's excellent adventure.

    Also enjoyed The Wave, In Search of Captain Zero and Eddie Would Go

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by live aloha View Post
    On a somewhat unrelated note, does anyone here write about their own experiences? I personally would most enjoy reading the stories of people to whom I can relate more closely. Greg Noll and Gerry Lopez have some amazing tales, but so do many of the people here. I can see why most of us would hesitate to share our stuff on here, but I would really enjoy that type of thing. Maybe a separate forum section dedicated to that specifically? Maybe it's a dead end, but to me it sounds cool enough to suggest...
    that sounds like a really cool idea. i'm sure people would be hesitant to post, but once the ball got rolling there could be a bunch of awesome stories on there. they wouldn't have to be really creative and descriptive or anything, but i think everyone would enjoy reading stuff we could all relate to

  8. #38
    On of my favorites, The Big Drop, a collection of stories from past and present on big wave riding. Best and most detailed written piece on the Death of Mark Foo is included in this one. http://www.amazon.com/Big-Drop-Class.../dp/1560449179

    I liked The Wave a lot. Thought Sean Tompson's book was pretty lame. Da Bull was a pretty good look at Greg Noll. The Mickey Dora one was really good as well.