I guess it doesn't really fit with what you're really lookig for (to the OP), but Yvon Chouinard's (the founder of Patagonia) "Let My People Go Surfing" is an incredibly interesting read. Probably one of the best book's I've ever read.
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Thread: Good Surf Books
Aug 9, 2011, 06:34 PM #31Member
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- Jul 2011
Aug 9, 2011, 10:21 PM #32Senior Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
so it seems warshaw is an opinionated subjective,shallow,factually incorrect hack,but he's all we've got,when without him leaves only the nat young stuff,which is like a million times worse
Aug 9, 2011, 11:12 PM #33
Aug 9, 2011, 11:46 PM #34Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2008
- easternshore md.
has anyone read Transcendental memories of a surf Rebel? the mike hynson bio book. i read a chapter in the surfers journal a couple months ago, the chapter about him smuggling drugs in boards, seemed interesting.
Aug 10, 2011, 05:04 AM #35
On a somewhat unrelated note, does anyone here write about their own experiences? I personally would most enjoy reading the stories of people to whom I can relate more closely. Greg Noll and Gerry Lopez have some amazing tales, but so do many of the people here. I can see why most of us would hesitate to share our stuff on here, but I would really enjoy that type of thing. Maybe a separate forum section dedicated to that specifically? Maybe it's a dead end, but to me it sounds cool enough to suggest...
Fiction, surf culture:
Nunn, Kem. Tapping the Source (based in Huntington Beach); The Dogs of Winter (based in the Pacific Northwest); and, Tijuana Straits (based along the border of Calif. and Mexico)
Not a novel but full of surfing history and culture from the past, excerpts from famous writings:
The Kem Nunn books are surf noir classic. Tapping the Source is allegedly the originations of "Point Break." Tijuana Straits is an amazing read with some of the sickest characters imaginable. Dogs of Winter is my personal favorite of his books. This takes place deep in the red triangle and is a complex web of dark characters and redemption, with surfing as the anchor of the book.
On another note, All for a Few Perfect Waves was a great read, yeah at points the reader is absolutely disgusted with Dora. The book itself is engaging and easy to read and provides insight into early Malibu and Dora's excellent adventure.
Also enjoyed The Wave, In Search of Captain Zero and Eddie Would Go
On of my favorites, The Big Drop, a collection of stories from past and present on big wave riding. Best and most detailed written piece on the Death of Mark Foo is included in this one. http://www.amazon.com/Big-Drop-Class.../dp/1560449179
I liked The Wave a lot. Thought Sean Tompson's book was pretty lame. Da Bull was a pretty good look at Greg Noll. The Mickey Dora one was really good as well.