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When not surfing a good wave for a while you sure know how out of shape you get quickly. Got 2 nice sessions yesterday one at AI in the morn. And the second At 1/4 town OC. Both equaling about 6.5 hours in the water. Who else had the most fun they've had in a while ???




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!! Let's hope we don't wait as long as we did for this swell for the next one to come around.
Yesterday, was pretty much comparable to Ernesto. I got barreled out of my mind, had some el rollos, and nice hard ass spins!!! I'm still sore...lol. Hope we get another swell and those conditions like that soon before the cold!!!
How'd everyone else do?

