I think that there are more surfing accidents (and even fatalities) in smaller surf than in big stuff - maybe newbies haven't learned how to protect themselves (head, neck, etc.) when they fall in shallow water - I've been surfing a loooong time, and I really hurt my rotator cuff a few years ago (playing around, being stoopid and getting careless) in, like, 3-foot surf! man, my shoulder was smashed into the sand, and i saw stars! it took a year before my shoulder finally got back to being totally pain free!
I went against my word and surfed Croatan this afternoon. The current was strong and the waves had some punch. Total kookville though, amazingly no one was running into each other.
Sandbridge was ok on Thursday evening, some rides but long waits; not many out there, wow was that water cold: numb toes in an hour. Props to the dudes who were bare-backin' it.
Water temps improved big-time today. This morning in the 25th St area was excellent. Powerful sideshore pushing north, but waves that we've been waiting all summer for with no / little wind. Had to be in the right place 'cause of the fast hurricane push on the swell. Lotta whoopin from guys as they had some great, fun, lengthy rides on Irene.
i was at croatan for this thursday evening.... def brought me down to earth in the middle of a fun little session with a friend i just happened to walk by after drifting down and saw his face looked directly into his lifeless eyes.... i had to walk away and just sit down and gather myself... worst part is not being able to help.. we all think we are invincible when we are out...its heartbreaking this man is a newlywed with a newborn child.... may he rest in peace.