Page 1 of 6 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 55
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    South Shore, MA
    Posts
    280

    my stomach is in my chest

    8.2 ft at 11 sec. light ssw winds. high tide around 4:30. i'm leaving work at 3 and meeting my buddy to surf our favorite spot. the spot is a rock reef so it can be a little sketch depending on the tide. actually twice at this spot i've been slammed so hard by a breaking wave that my board got pushed to the bottom and a fin and fin box snapped off.

    i'm so nerved up i can hardly work. this is the biggest swell i've been out in in at least a year. i spent an hour last night stuffing wax into a couple of dings i hadn't had time to fix on my thruster (i normally ride my quad unless it gets big).

    what do you guys do to prep for a big session?

    personally i always make sure i poop but that's about it.

    speaking of which...

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    NH
    Posts
    5,489
    Relax. It will be blown out by the time you get there......

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    BELMAR, NJ
    Posts
    3,237
    Images
    1
    Don't drink..... The coffee or caffeine

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Monmouth County Sandbar
    Posts
    102
    Images
    7
    Helps to think about the guys surfing 30ft Mavericks or 20ft Ireland knowing that they very well can survive slams in cold water in waves 3 times the size. Not saying that 8.2 @ 11 sec isn't heavy! Thinking about this helps me calm my nerves down.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Turtle Island
    Posts
    11,844
    Images
    6
    ^^^^that, and don't get stoned.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by seldom seen View Post
    ^^^^that, and don't get stoned.
    What? I've been doing it wrong all these years? just joking kids, drugs are bad.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Central FL
    Posts
    10,249
    Prep work is done on a regular basis by surfing regularly and staying in shape, keeping cardio up and paddle strength up. At this point there isn't much else you can do but stretch really well and find a way to calm your nerves before paddling out. Don't stare at it too long when you walk up, give it a minute to study the wave pattern but the longer you stare the more you will psych yourself out. Try and remain calm at all times and if it gets to be too much don't be ashamed to come back in.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Turtle Island
    Posts
    11,844
    Images
    6
    Quote Originally Posted by LazyE View Post
    What? I've been doing it wrong all these years? just joking kids, drugs are bad.
    Oh no dude, you've been doing it right...for me though, if there's size, and it's cold, and I get baked, then it's the "what the f am i doing out here paddle out"...

  9. #9
    oh man, you gotta be a champion stoner to be able to surf decent sized waves all cheezed up.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Old Jersey
    Posts
    2,265
    Know your limits.

    Dont put wax in your dings.



    Drink a lot of water. Have a nice meal.