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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Monmouth County
    Posts
    1,366

    Long Period Surf - Mon. Cty

    A lot of the long period swells in recent years didn't really send swell to monmouth county. A lot of us had to drive south or into NY to surf swells like Bill. I know there was some discussion, but this surfline feature sums it up perfectly - see the diagram on slide #20

    http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/me...ew-york_58972/

    hudson valley diverts all long period swell north and south of it. hopefully this doesn't happen with katia...

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Lewes, DE
    Posts
    5,377
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    If you take a close look at the Swellinfo wave maps, you can see the Hudson Canyon refraction influence. In Monmouth County, the southern half of the county sees much more wave energy then the northern half.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Monmouth County, NJ
    Posts
    544
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    2
    good piece for sure.. good info.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Belmaaa
    Posts
    318
    that was great to see the refraction of long period swell depending on the swell direction. thanks for posting

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    1,553
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    5
    Man that is cool. I finally understand all those ankle high days at the Hook and cranking surf down in Long branch.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Monmouth Beach, NJ
    Posts
    2,573
    I've always said the magic numbers for northern MC are a S or SSE swell, 10' @ 10 sec... about as long a period as the place can handle without starting to get that "Canyon Effect," which refracts swell away from the local beaches. But once it gets up into the 14 or 15 sec periods, you start to see more swell making it through the Canyon Area, and hitting our beaches. I could be wrong, but I'll bet that's what happened with Irene. I would not be surprised if the numbers during the peak of the Irene swell were something like 15' @ 14 or 15 sec. If anybody has that data, I'd love to see it posted here.

    Mr. Info???

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Lewes, DE
    Posts
    5,377
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    121
    Quote Originally Posted by LBCrew View Post
    I've always said the magic numbers for northern MC are a S or SSE swell, 10' @ 10 sec... about as long a period as the place can handle without starting to get that "Canyon Effect," which refracts swell away from the local beaches. But once it gets up into the 14 or 15 sec periods, you start to see more swell making it through the Canyon Area, and hitting our beaches. I could be wrong, but I'll bet that's what happened with Irene. I would not be surprised if the numbers during the peak of the Irene swell were something like 15' @ 14 or 15 sec. If anybody has that data, I'd love to see it posted here.

    Mr. Info???
    Direction of the swell along with wave period are key for the refraction process. A longer period south swell will actually get refracted towards Monmouth County, where as the easterly swell will get refracted away. Irene was a very southerly swell, where as Katia will be ESE. This is my first hurricane season living in New Jersey, but in the past, It seemed the cutoff point was around Belmar, where Belmar and to the south would see most of the long period energy and to the north would be smaller.