I missed a lot of what time in college at towson. As soon as I was done there, i realized that I may only have a small window of freedom before a lot of responsibility, so my gf, now wife moved where there were waves every day. I got into a job field to accommodate my surfing. Spent almost a decade just obsessed with surfing. At some point, it was negative. I just put it to high on my list of priorities.
Now im married, have a newborn. I only get about 3 days a week that I can surf, so its cool to be by good waves. But what I have come to understand is that there are more important things in life than surfing. My wife really misses her family, and the satisfaction that I once got from surfing is different. My surfing is where ive always hoped it would be and i did my thing. The plan now is to move somewhere back east, maybe in the southeast so my wife can be with family and we can spend more time doing the important stuff...
Even though where her family is in SC is usually small, super fickle etc... I am actually really excited to be somewhere where I will just drop everything when good swell comes, albeit not often..... So the rest of the time, if its usually flat, I will be able to focus on everything else... my family. getting a HOME, finally... just trying to do the american dream thing. Surfing will always be a huge priority in my life, but it can't be the main thing anymore... I will be able to enjoying surfing when i can and not be obsessed by it...
So from the original poster, it depends on where you are in your life. Some guys like to work hard early and enjoy the benefits of their hard work later in life... In my life, I felt like while I was young and the most fit I would every be, and with no children etc, that it was maybe the only time in my life that I could fly by the seat of my pants and just do what I want... I wouldnt change it for a thing.... I think most people, especially surfers will go through a similar time in their lives, regardless of when.... But i have never been more satisfied with where I am in life, and surfing.... But the balance is shifting, just like life.
My opinion is there are 3 different types of surfers.
2. You probably have a job, and maybe have a wife. You might even have some bills,... etc.. but you do not let any of this deter you. You will go surf when its good. You will take vacation days, sick days, pretty much whatever you got to do to make it happen. You are transitioning from a 'surfer' to a family man (or woman).
Im trying to stay at NO. 2 because I dont have money
I'm number 2 also. Only problem for me is that a year ago I moved inland (PA) to be with my GF (now fiance) so I live 2 hours from the beach, but I still make it work and get out once or twice a week.
On weekdays if its gonna be good then I'll pack up my gear in the car and leave work a little early and get out there for an evening session and drive back at night. On weekends when theres swell I wake up around 3 or 4 AM, drive an hour and meet up with a friend of mine and we drive the rest of the way. We'll find a spot and usually be out in the water before anyone else, surf for a few hours and be home by noon.
Its not ideal for me right now but I make it work and still get enough water time to get by. Hopefully in the next year or two we will move much closer to the beach and Ill be able to get out more often, but for now I can still catch most of the good swells.
To the OP, if you want to surf more then give up some of the luxurys you have. Do you really need a new car? 75 hours a week? If those things are important to you then be happy with what you have but if you want to surf more then sell the car and cut back your hours so you have more time.
This is your life so do what you enjoy and make it work. Thats the beauty of life, you can choose to live it however you want.
Zach- I dont know if you remember me, but im the one who back in 07 was out in h.b during the real good swell...then came home and had 765lbs falling on my face...never the less I like your post. I love surfing and wish i could whenever i want, but life happens..my wife has just gotten ove a life threatning infection. Times have been stressful...I often long for the days when i was a grom. Im torn between two things that i love doing as hobbies/pastimes..etc..I compete in strongman/highland games and I surf, and im probably the biggest surfer in the world..haha..
None the less i agree about your moving to the southeast comment...I have found that when i was out in socal(h.b primarily) spending time...as much as i love spending time out there, the waves were very similar each day for a lot of the time. However being on the east coast it is almost a better feeling, when it has been flat and then there are waves...at least thats how i remember it being a while ago. I would go on a vacation as a grom to florida...and check the waves every morning, and it was flat....however once there were waves that one morning, it was an awesome feeling. I wish I could go back to those days of being a grom sometimes... So I understand what you are saying completely..send me a pm sometime.
good topic. for me i now own my own business, and can schedule my work around good swells. sometimes when you gotta run to make the customers, and contractors happy i wind up missing a few days when it's really going off. i really only work 20-25 hours a week on average, but i'm making at least double of what i did working for someone else. years ago i didn't live down the shore, and then i moved down the shore, but still worked up home to bergen county where i had to commute to every day. i love that i can get on my bike now, and take an 8 minute ride to one of the better breaks around, and i'm also just minutes away to drive to other good breaks when my home one isn't working. i'm living the life i dreamed of even only 5-10 years ago.
generally, if you sit at work all day wishing you were surfing, you have the wrong job. find something you like that adds to your life and then you can work surfing and other important life elements into the mix.
Touche! I didn't mean to exclude wahines. But I and the others who responded weren't just making an assumption - the original poster did specifically mention "wife or gf" and we were responding to him. Peace.