
Originally Posted by
Beef
Zach- I dont know if you remember me, but im the one who back in 07 was out in h.b during the real good swell...then came home and had 765lbs falling on my face...never the less I like your post. I love surfing and wish i could whenever i want, but life happens..my wife has just gotten ove a life threatning infection. Times have been stressful...I often long for the days when i was a grom. Im torn between two things that i love doing as hobbies/pastimes..etc..I compete in strongman/highland games and I surf, and im probably the biggest surfer in the world..haha..
None the less i agree about your moving to the southeast comment...I have found that when i was out in socal(h.b primarily) spending time...as much as i love spending time out there, the waves were very similar each day for a lot of the time. However being on the east coast it is almost a better feeling, when it has been flat and then there are waves...at least thats how i remember it being a while ago. I would go on a vacation as a grom to florida...and check the waves every morning, and it was flat....however once there were waves that one morning, it was an awesome feeling. I wish I could go back to those days of being a grom sometimes... So I understand what you are saying completely..send me a pm sometime.