Hell yea! the jetty was going off! people getting barreled, bombs rolling through, it was actually clean haha, and everybody getting stoked for everybody. That's what it's all about
yes f*cking awesome! Big long solid lines yesterday followed up by gnarly drops and big green barrels today. Long live Katia! I love doing underwater summersaults after shooting the wrong section!
I might just have to hit up the evening session too...
I paddled out at 6:00 this morning on the mini-sim to try catch some more of that shoulder to head high love. I was falling out of the sky, half of the time. The other half of the time, I had some awesome drops, but the sections were pretty much show-stoppers, so I was all about the return to the lip and launching. Of course, the board stopped at the lip.
Surfed the last 4 days, dawn yesterday, this morning, and chest shoulder high this evening. For the first time since I moved from Hawaii I can say that I'm oficially surfed out.