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Thread: Favorite things

  1. #1
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    Favorite things

    What is y'alls favorite thing/moment about surfing? Every time I try to describe the emotions and feelings I have when I surf to other people, well, I end up sounding like an idiot haha. I just can't get over it though. It's changed my life and I want others to experince it too because it has definitely humbled and changed me for the better. To start this out, my favorite moment is when you are paddling for a wave. Nothing, and I mean nothing else is on your mind in the entire world except making that wave. I've come to realize what a powerful moment that is in this f'd up world we live in. I dunno. maybe i sound like an idiot but whatever, I'm a happy surfing idiot. Cheers guys and may the ocean keep you and guide you.

  2. #2
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    When I'm explaining surfing to non-surfers, I tell them that the unique thing about surfing is that when you're riding a wave, you are moving along something that itself is also moving. There are very few things in this world that you can say that about.

    Probably my favorite thing about surfing is when you go into a time warp. I don't know who else feels this way, but when I'm on a good wave, time slows down for me. I am hyperaware, and capable of remarkable things. Then when it is over time speeds back up to normal, and I replay in my mind what just happened, I'm thinking "wow, that was really awesome."

  3. #3
    capt jack, I have a similar favorite feeling. I call it being in the zone, where time, crowds, cold/hot, everything just turns off and the only thing you know is top and bottom. Many times on a good wave (especially really steep, fast waves) I will kick out and go "man, I bet that was fun" but really, I only remember the drop or a turn and the rest just happened.

    Rasta said it best in his "i surf because" interview. he said I surf because I cannot explain surfing, and I think that's incredible.

  4. #4
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    Ditto....it's kinda analogous (sp) to getting your sea legs. Nothing better than falling asleep after a long days session, a belly full of grub, some advil and closing your eyes and actually feeling random parts of rides. Mind Rides...

    When explaining it to guy friends who never surfed, I remark - It's better than getting laid! (of course somedays I'm not the great at either! LOL)

  5. #5
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    watching the wave pitch right in front of you and the strange serenity of being in the tube.. nothing in the world like it

    edit: funny how you can surf for 4 hours, get countless waves and only remember a few seconds of it

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by leethestud View Post
    I will kick out and go "man, I bet that was fun" but really, I only remember the drop or a turn and the rest just happened..
    That's EXACTLY what happens to me... I call it a "zen moment." It doesn't happen every wave... or even every session. But sometimes I'll be paddling back out and can't even remember the wave I just had. I think during those Zen Moments, all the multiple planes of reality that criss-cross the universe intersect and you become one with everything and disappear.

    Or maybe I just did too much acid back in the 80s...

  7. #7
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fFY4ZFvwf78

    rasta here, gives the best explanation of surfing i ever heard.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaptJAQ View Post
    When I'm explaining surfing to non-surfers, I tell them that the unique thing about surfing is that when you're riding a wave, you are moving along something that itself is also moving. There are very few things in this world that you can say that about.

    Probably my favorite thing about surfing is when you go into a time warp. I don't know who else feels this way, but when I'm on a good wave, time slows down for me. I am hyperaware, and capable of remarkable things. Then when it is over time speeds back up to normal, and I replay in my mind what just happened, I'm thinking "wow, that was really awesome."
    Man, that's how I got hooked on surfing. I literally remember the first time i ever made a turn and got a ride down the line. I remember how the sun was, the people around me, the temp of the water, and the absolute peace and serenity i felt jammin' down the line. you shoulda seen the smile on my face after I did it haha
    Last edited by 757surfer; Sep 23, 2011 at 10:49 PM.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by GnarActually View Post
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fFY4ZFvwf78

    rasta here, gives the best explanation of surfing i ever heard.

    Gnar, thank you. this just further adds to why he is one of my favorite surfers. If y;all ever get the chance, check out the movie still filthy cuz that's where like half of his surf clips came from in that video. I want to make my own alaia board dammit haha

  10. #10
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    I like how rasta said he drinks a little bit of the water evey time he goes out. I do the same thing only usually it's not on purpose and sometimes it's a lot of water.