What is y'alls favorite thing/moment about surfing? Every time I try to describe the emotions and feelings I have when I surf to other people, well, I end up sounding like an idiot haha. I just can't get over it though. It's changed my life and I want others to experince it too because it has definitely humbled and changed me for the better. To start this out, my favorite moment is when you are paddling for a wave. Nothing, and I mean nothing else is on your mind in the entire world except making that wave. I've come to realize what a powerful moment that is in this f'd up world we live in. I dunno. maybe i sound like an idiot but whatever, I'm a happy surfing idiot. Cheers guys and may the ocean keep you and guide you.
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Thread: Favorite things
Sep 23, 2011, 02:31 PM #1
Sep 23, 2011, 06:18 PM #2
When I'm explaining surfing to non-surfers, I tell them that the unique thing about surfing is that when you're riding a wave, you are moving along something that itself is also moving. There are very few things in this world that you can say that about.
Probably my favorite thing about surfing is when you go into a time warp. I don't know who else feels this way, but when I'm on a good wave, time slows down for me. I am hyperaware, and capable of remarkable things. Then when it is over time speeds back up to normal, and I replay in my mind what just happened, I'm thinking "wow, that was really awesome."
Sep 23, 2011, 06:43 PM #3
capt jack, I have a similar favorite feeling. I call it being in the zone, where time, crowds, cold/hot, everything just turns off and the only thing you know is top and bottom. Many times on a good wave (especially really steep, fast waves) I will kick out and go "man, I bet that was fun" but really, I only remember the drop or a turn and the rest just happened.
Rasta said it best in his "i surf because" interview. he said I surf because I cannot explain surfing, and I think that's incredible.
Ditto....it's kinda analogous (sp) to getting your sea legs. Nothing better than falling asleep after a long days session, a belly full of grub, some advil and closing your eyes and actually feeling random parts of rides. Mind Rides...
When explaining it to guy friends who never surfed, I remark - It's better than getting laid! (of course somedays I'm not the great at either! LOL)
Sep 23, 2011, 08:13 PM #5Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2008
- Monmouth County
watching the wave pitch right in front of you and the strange serenity of being in the tube.. nothing in the world like it
edit: funny how you can surf for 4 hours, get countless waves and only remember a few seconds of it
Sep 23, 2011, 08:17 PM #6
Or maybe I just did too much acid back in the 80s...
Sep 23, 2011, 09:22 PM #7
Sep 23, 2011, 10:40 PM #8
Last edited by 757surfer; Sep 23, 2011 at 10:49 PM.
Sep 23, 2011, 10:46 PM #9
I like how rasta said he drinks a little bit of the water evey time he goes out. I do the same thing only usually it's not on purpose and sometimes it's a lot of water.