In my opinion the best part of surfing is charging. Being that person who walks that fine line between stupidity and bliss. For anyone whos surfed solid 10-12+ surf, seeing that mountain of water slowly creepin in along the horizon. Trying to drop in as late as possible, hoping that u can make the drop to maybe the BEST BARREL OF YOUR LIFE! Or just maybe u **** up, maybe it closes out, and to feel the power of mother nature. Shes a beast that wont let u out of her grasp until she's done with you. And if ur lucky u can catch your breath before another wave smashes into u. That feeling of being Submissive to the earth is a one of a kind feeling, the BEST to me!!!!
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Thread: Favorite things
Sep 24, 2011, 03:36 AM #21
Sep 24, 2011, 03:54 AM #22Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2009
Transcendence. Time slows, reactions speed. Man, you're out there for hours and if you get a really sweet one, later, no matter where I am, I close my eyes and can ride that wave again and again. Until i just HAVE to go back and get another one.
And the stories, the travels, smell of wax, even ding repair - it's all good.
Sep 24, 2011, 04:20 AM #23
this sounds like a conversation i'd have with my friends at 4am after a night raging, then getting sentimental
So many things are great about surfing. But i like how once i get out into the lineup and on a wave nothing else in the world matters. its an escape from reality, just you your board your bros and the waves. Everyone shares that same stoke no matter if your getting barreled or watching your friend boost an air everyone is enjoying themself and nothing else seems to matter. when i get in the water i forget about everything and just live iin the moment on the wave loving life.
Sep 24, 2011, 04:28 AM #25
Sep 24, 2011, 01:21 PM #26
Love it when you're out there with a few friends and you know the next wave is yours. You're sitting there, waiting, then the bump comes into view and you hear everyone hooting. Snap around and even though everyone's still screaming, it all goes silent the second that wave is underneath you and you're digging like your life depends on it. Then you get that magical feeling, YES I'm in. Pop to your feet and you're cruising down the line, all this chaos going on around you, but you're so tuned in you don't notice. Few seconds later it's done, and you sit there for a second, take it all in. The ocean then welcomes you back with the next set detonating on your skull. Yewww love it.
i always try to recall the sound of the wave while surfing, but i can never remember it (except for the sound of the angry puerto rican local i accidentally dropped in once. ill never forget that..). its a weird feeling not knowing what something you just did 2 minutes ago sounded like. maybe thats just me, but i think that shows how surfing is so much different than anything else you'll ever do.
the moment right after you paddle like hell to catch a wave, when the board plains out, and you know you caught it. that wave is yours and only yours. it traveled hundreds of miles just for you.
to explain the beauty of surfing is like to explain a beautiful sun set to a blind man.. where would you start ? how can you explain a color? you just cant, its something you have to experience for your self. ... a little perspective too, ever realize how much goes on to create a wave? the sun, the moon and our earth all come into play.. no wave is the same, each ride is literally a once in a lifetime expeirence..over and over again..
Sep 25, 2011, 01:53 AM #30
when you see the waves pumping ,putting on your leash and running into the ocean and paddling out is the best feeling ever