In my opinion the best part of surfing is charging. Being that person who walks that fine line between stupidity and bliss. For anyone whos surfed solid 10-12+ surf, seeing that mountain of water slowly creepin in along the horizon. Trying to drop in as late as possible, hoping that u can make the drop to maybe the BEST BARREL OF YOUR LIFE! Or just maybe u **** up, maybe it closes out, and to feel the power of mother nature. Shes a beast that wont let u out of her grasp until she's done with you. And if ur lucky u can catch your breath before another wave smashes into u. That feeling of being Submissive to the earth is a one of a kind feeling, the BEST to me!!!!
Transcendence. Time slows, reactions speed. Man, you're out there for hours and if you get a really sweet one, later, no matter where I am, I close my eyes and can ride that wave again and again. Until i just HAVE to go back and get another one.
And the stories, the travels, smell of wax, even ding repair - it's all good.
So many things are great about surfing. But i like how once i get out into the lineup and on a wave nothing else in the world matters. its an escape from reality, just you your board your bros and the waves. Everyone shares that same stoke no matter if your getting barreled or watching your friend boost an air everyone is enjoying themself and nothing else seems to matter. when i get in the water i forget about everything and just live iin the moment on the wave loving life.
Hell yea to all of these great posts. I'm getting stoked for tomorrows session just looking at these. I'm glad i found a place where I can express myself to others that feel the same way. that AI clips is heartbreaking especially when you think about his kid and his brother stepping up. Life is short. Do what you love and don't do anything else. Peace and see ya in the water. YEWWWWWW!! haha
Agreed man life is short, you need to cherish every moment with you family and friends and enjoy your time in the water like its your last. That AI vid is every sad but inspirational and gets me pumped to surf. Can what to snag some fun ones this weekend.
Love it when you're out there with a few friends and you know the next wave is yours. You're sitting there, waiting, then the bump comes into view and you hear everyone hooting. Snap around and even though everyone's still screaming, it all goes silent the second that wave is underneath you and you're digging like your life depends on it. Then you get that magical feeling, YES I'm in. Pop to your feet and you're cruising down the line, all this chaos going on around you, but you're so tuned in you don't notice. Few seconds later it's done, and you sit there for a second, take it all in. The ocean then welcomes you back with the next set detonating on your skull. Yewww love it.
capt jack, I have a similar favorite feeling. I call it being in the zone, where time, crowds, cold/hot, everything just turns off and the only thing you know is top and bottom. Many times on a good wave (especially really steep, fast waves) I will kick out and go "man, I bet that was fun" but really, I only remember the drop or a turn and the rest just happened.
Rasta said it best in his "i surf because" interview. he said I surf because I cannot explain surfing, and I think that's incredible.
it seems quite a few of us have a very similar feeling. when your riding a wave everything else just stops, except for you your board and the wave. then when its over and you try to recall it, it seems like a totally different experience. i think people have trouble explaining it because you can't even recall the feeling completely unless you're actually doing it. being on a wave almost gives me super powers because i'm just that more alert and agile, and i know half the stuff i do when i'm surfing i cant do on land.
i always try to recall the sound of the wave while surfing, but i can never remember it (except for the sound of the angry puerto rican local i accidentally dropped in once. ill never forget that..). its a weird feeling not knowing what something you just did 2 minutes ago sounded like. maybe thats just me, but i think that shows how surfing is so much different than anything else you'll ever do.
to explain the beauty of surfing is like to explain a beautiful sun set to a blind man.. where would you start ? how can you explain a color? you just cant, its something you have to experience for your self. ... a little perspective too, ever realize how much goes on to create a wave? the sun, the moon and our earth all come into play.. no wave is the same, each ride is literally a once in a lifetime expeirence..over and over again..