It's hard for me to explain what I love about surfing, I just love every aspect of it. From frothing while suiting up in parking lot to the paddle out, and then the actual wave riding. I love that completely exhausted, satisfied feeling after a session, recalling the best waves/turns in my head on the drive home. Then almost as soon as I get out of the water I'm already thinking about my next session. I just can't get enough...
I like how rasta said he drinks a little bit of the water evey time he goes out. I do the same thing only usually it's not on purpose and sometimes it's a lot of water.
I remember when I was young, maybe 14, I was sponging the shore break and just got done chugging a fruit punch capri sun. I headed back in and the first wave I caught I wiped out and drank a whole **** ton of water and puked blood red. All the people around looked at me like I was going to die. It was pretty funny..
I think the thing that I like best about surfing is that it feels like it shouldn't be happening. You shouldn't be allowed to stand on water or be able to be in the water when it is 36 degrees. The initial feeling of surfing and the feeling of being in the water with snow on the ground is just bizaare, and I enjoy that bizaare feeling. It makes every day stand out from the ordinary.
There's a good line in "The Search for Captain Zero" that sums it up for me pretty well.
In waiting for a wave, in sitting out there between sets, bad thoughts, obsessive thoughts, will surface, but while actually riding, while standing up and searching for that rhythm, no matter how awful the day I'm having, my mind is clean and clear and blank and therefore content. I have never, not ever, had a conscious thought, good, bad or indifferent, while in the act of riding a wave. Some days I really need that vacuum, that purity.
- Alan Weisbecker (surfer, author of Cosmic Banditos and In Search of Captain Zero, nomad)
Let me add this to my own comment above. While you can find that "vacuum, that purity" in other pursuits like meditation or playing music or whatever, the thing about surfing for me is the direct, pure connection to something so much larger than ourselves. The wave is generated from energy from some distant storm, travels hundreds, maybe thousands of miles and then, at the last second of its life before it explodes and that energy is returned back to the universe, you jump into that explosion and stand there, using all your senses and everything you've practiced for so many years, dreamed about so many nights and you just get in that spot feel it. I spent a long time sitting in church pews in my life and never felt a damn thing. This works.
wb and you can find me at crystal and sweetwater and all over wb.
my favorite things has to be the pure enjoyment i get when i either surf a knee high wave or oh wave i just always have the biggest smile on my face. and it seems like im always happy when i always get a surf session in for a day and when i dont surf for a day or two im always cranky or not wanting to do anything.
Hell yea to all of these great posts. I'm getting stoked for tomorrows session just looking at these. I'm glad i found a place where I can express myself to others that feel the same way. that AI clips is heartbreaking especially when you think about his kid and his brother stepping up. Life is short. Do what you love and don't do anything else. Peace and see ya in the water. YEWWWWWW!! haha
After I get out of the water I feel like a big weight has been lifted off my shoulders or kinda like I just let out a huge amount of tension building up from the everyday norm we call life. Triming up and getting perched on the nose and just standin out there for about 70 yards or so then doing a bottom turn and the long paddle back to the line up make me feel like I just did something thats never been done before or I have acomplished some great task. Its weird but most people wont understand it unless they surf