Do you ever do the 'underwater takeoff' thing? I used to hit this spot on South Shore HI, and this Japanese guy would show up every day and glide up into the wave from below. Watching this from underwater is one of the coolest things I've ever seen in surfing. I've tried to do it but usually f' up the timing and miss the wave.
i have tried it, but i can never seem to get it right...i've gone head first into the bottom a bunch of times trying it & have sorta given up on it...it's definitely a really cool thing to see.