Do you ever do the 'underwater takeoff' thing? I used to hit this spot on South Shore HI, and this Japanese guy would show up every day and glide up into the wave from below. Watching this from underwater is one of the coolest things I've ever seen in surfing. I've tried to do it but usually f' up the timing and miss the wave.
i have tried it, but i can never seem to get it right...i've gone head first into the bottom a bunch of times trying it & have sorta given up on it...it's definitely a really cool thing to see.
Surfing is a relatively safe sport. Aside from a few stitches and a torn knee ligament, I've surfed for most of my life and I'm still going strong.
But... by FAR my most serious injury was bodysurfing... I got a serious concussion a few years ago when I got a knee to the head from a bodyboarder who dropped in on me. I shook it off and kept going... even surfed later that day. But the next day I couldn't even remember my name. Ended up in the hospital next morning and couldn't even stand up straight. Made some calls in to work to say I wasn't coming, but don't even remember making them.
a great place for body surfing because it has the hawaii deep water power even in small waves but has a sandy bottom (instead of the usual lava or coral). you don't even have to kick much...but the back suction on yer feet will pull yer fins right off too....
I can't wait to see this movie! I grew up bodysurfing a couple of miles north of the wedge in newport Beach. I still have the Churchill fins I got for my 14th birthday. I've bodyboarded as well and now I'm trying to learn to surf.
But, on days when I'm swimming in shore break, I bodysurf and still love it.
I'll be first in line when this film comes out.