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  1. #11
    yes, all swells are wind swells but a longer period swell's energy dips farther below the surface and is effected by the bottom sooner (thus 'ground' swell). they're also thicker and denser and less effected by surface winds and tides though as others mentioned low tide can be more prone to close outs... but not always!

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    VB via PR and HI
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    231
    Quote Originally Posted by njsurfer42 View Post
    i've also found that longer period swells prefer a higher tide (at least around here) b/c this allows them to "feel" the bottom more gradually, allowing more of an opportunity for a rideable/makeable wave. long(er) period swells on low tide=close out city.
    At 6 ft 14 second interval I was wondering when to bolt out of work today and surf for an hour. After reading this, I might wait for high tide.

  3. #13

    gotta disagree...

    Bottom line: Long period and strong offshores = barrels. period.

    High tide vs low tide... that is totally dependent on your spot. I can already see it getting junky and struggling to throw over at many spots and we are 2 hours out from high tide. You want the best session today? head out around like 2 or 3pm and surf until you have wet noodles for arms. I usually prefer a building tide rather than outgoing but this morning the juice wasn't here yet. With the swell filling in throughout the day and the offshores staying steady, I expect to get shacked out of my mind this afternoon / evening.

    Long period closing out.... depends on where you are surfing. Yes, many of the connected "peninsula" style sandbars will be more prone to close out in the long period stuff. Find a sandbar that has a defined channel to one side or both and that "close out" will act like a reef head with a gnarley take off and a long line. Even better yet- find a jetty or pier or even a rivermouth. I would give just about anything to be perched up at the new inlet in S-turns at mid-tide this afternoon. They need to open that damn bridge...

    Pura vida dudes hope you play this one right. No need to sit in a crowd either, this whole coast is about go off!

  4. #14
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Lewes, DE
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    5,377
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    Its hard for me to answer these questions simply, but in general my answer is that longer period swells are much easier to forecast long range then short period wind swell systems. BUT, hurricane swells, which tend to be longer period, are a beast in themselves, and should really be considered differently then other types of storm systems.

    Short period swells (wind swells) are generated by wind systems near the coast and travel only short distances before reaching the shore. So, we are relying on the weather forecasting models to determine the wind X days in advance. This is can be very unreliable several days in advance, where a small change in the intensity or exact location of a storm system can make a big difference to wind swell generated so close to the coast.

    Long period swells, generally travel a much further distance before reaching the shore and are generated in the open ocean rather then right along the coastline. These swells can travel many days before reaching the coastline. The reliance is thus less on the long range weather forecasting, because the swell has already been generated and we are now just using ocean physics to track the generated swell as it traverses through the open ocean. The ocean wave physics is very reliable. The challenges in long period swells becomes more about the local nearshore bathymetric influence (ocean bottom depths), where refraction/defraction and offshore shoaling increases as the wave period increases. This creates greater challenge on the wave modelling front, where offshore canyons, islands, reefs, etc can play big roles on the swells.

    As of now, Swellinfo has a bit of issues with correctly modelling the local bathymetric influence of the longer period models in some locations, but good news is that we are very close to performing a big upgrade which is going addressing this issue and should make the forecasts excellent! I'm very excited to get this new upgrade out there. I am hoping this will be done in October.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Central NJ
    Posts
    246
    Windswells blow.............

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    LBI
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    905
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    1
    Quote Originally Posted by Swellinfo View Post
    As of now, Swellinfo has a bit of issues with correctly modelling the local bathymetric influence of the longer period models in some locations, but good news is that we are very close to performing a big upgrade which is going addressing this issue and should make the forecasts excellent! I'm very excited to get this new upgrade out there. I am hoping this will be done in October.
    yeah its definitely not 1-2 feet in LBI right now

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Monmouth Beach, NJ
    Posts
    2,583
    Mr. Swellinfo... when you're done with that, can you start working on something to make the winds blow offshore? Maybe some sort of giant, adjustable baffle system that can take local sideshores and turn them offshore?

    Thanks in advance...

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    All I know is everything today on Delmarva was ground swell. Big and mostly un-makable groundswell. Saw a few really nice waves ridden but unfortunately none for me. Sat there for an hour and a half and never dropped into one. I will take a big wind swell anyday over those picturesque pile drivers, lol.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    milton delaware
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zippy View Post
    All I know is everything today on Delmarva was ground swell. Big and mostly un-makable groundswell. Saw a few really nice waves ridden but unfortunately none for me. Sat there for an hour and a half and never dropped into one. I will take a big wind swell anyday over those picturesque pile drivers, lol.
    Agree with you zippy...

    16 second swell period...looks good, but doesnt ride that good...your average sandbar might not handle it.

    Today:


  10. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
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    LBI
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zippy View Post
    All I know is everything today on Delmarva was ground swell. Big and mostly un-makable groundswell. Saw a few really nice waves ridden but unfortunately none for me. Sat there for an hour and a half and never dropped into one. I will take a big wind swell anyday over those picturesque pile drivers, lol.
    i got worked pretty hard today. the sets would come through and close out the entire sandbar, it looked like they were breaking below sea level they were sucking up so much. i popped up with a face full of sand after almost every wave