i def know a couple of guys in their 60's who still rip, travel for big waves, and surf shortboards... Just take care of yourself and you'll surf for a very long time

i def know a couple of guys in their 60's who still rip, travel for big waves, and surf shortboards... Just take care of yourself and you'll surf for a very long time
I'm 40, been surfing since I was 15, high school athlete and served in the military (Marines, infantry) when I was in my 20s and during that time I drank a lot, smoked cigarettes, ate terribly and lets just say did alot of \"other stuff\" that isn't good for you. I was always a decent surfer though. When I hit my early 30s I pretty much stopped partying, focused on my career and family, joined a really good gym, started eating better, I do yoga and I go to bed at 10 pm. My surfing over the past 10 yrs has drastically improved. I can stay in the water for 4-6 hrs. My eyesight is starting to go which is annoying and I'm basically going deaf from surfers ear and I need to get checked for skin cancer about 4x a year but its all good. Also, my ball sack is starting to hang lower which caused me to sit on my right nut once while on my longboard which was painful, plus low balls makes my **** look smaller...but thats seperate from surfing.
I'm 45 and ride a 5'5" board. Not sure if I rip but I do surf as well or better than 90% of the people I see out on any given day. If there is one thing that I lost from my youth it would be the charging into big surf part of me. I'm now more cautious and leave the biggest days to those younger and better able to deal with it. I would say this past Sunday on Delmarva was the biggest I feel comfortable with. Head high and down I'm there!
My Dad is 69 and still surfs his custom made Rich Wilken longboard. He's a freak though...i hope to be in his condition when i'm his age.
indeed that was a great post. I'm 24 and plan on surfing as long as I can. The oldest people I have seen out may have hit 60, but they're always out on a longboarding day..chest high and slow clean rolling waves which makes total sense. I can only pray to be surfing at 60.
IMG_9605.jpgI’m 52 and have been surfing since 1977. I love surfing and can’t imagine just walking away from it, but aging is a process none of us escape. The body may decline but not the Stoke!
I spend a good bit of time and effort trying to stay in condition to surf. I can still surf fairly well, not as good as when I was 25, but I still spend most weekends chasing waves in OBX, and still usually manage a trip overseas each year. I have seen a gradual decline of my skills, reaction time has slowed a bit- endurance is declining but I can still put in good long session if the waves are there.
Just like they told you in pee wee football – concentrate on the basics- blocking and tackling. Diet and exercise: keep your weight under control, stay strong and flexible. What I have seen is guys that let themselves go end up fading away. What I do is yoga for flexibility, especially for the back, shoulders and hips. Weight lifting for strength , some type of cardio (treadmill/swimming/ pushing sleds)
As an older guy and one who weighs about 195 I also find it is important to find a good shaper to work with – too many people just start adding length and thickness and end up with a bloated board that doesn’t do anything well. Or they just go to the LB figuring they are too old for anything else.
I can’t ride a hpsb anymore so I don’t even try – but a well designed board with more width to plane quicker, a bit more thickness for float and the appropriate rocker work good for me.
A public service announcement – As you get older (maybe start @ 40 or 45) make sure to have regular physicals. I dislike Drs as much as anyone, but at 45 I was diagnosed with Cancer during a routine physical. Went through surgery (missed the entire 2004 Fall East Coast season) but am cancer free today. Wouldn’t have found it as early, and my prognosis wouldn’t have been as good without that physical.
The picture is me in El Salvador in July 2011.
Jim