I will check out that link to the video. Thanks. Yeah, the legendarysurfers.com site is rad and interesting to read. The other site I was trying to post was
http://hydrodynamica.com/. It's a good read as well.
In a nutshell, as written on hydrodynamica.com: "By looking into the origin and influence of Simmons’ 1940s surfboard designs, which he called ‘hydrodynamic planing hulls’, we discover a narrative thread that connects Western science, design, and popular culture to the centuries old finless planing boards of Hawaii and Oceana. Through Simmons, the compelling story of the Planing Totem, the ancient and deceptively simple root of modern board riding, is revealed."