i find it more exhilarating than scary. YEWH
i find it more exhilarating than scary. YEWH
im still stuck on your name and you saying you have never been shaked i feel they go hand in hand
i too would say that the worst part of a wipeout is getting the waves that are behind that wave on top of you
depends on the type of wave your riding... a 4ft Puerto Escondido heavy beach break wave can hammer you, while a 4ft mushy mellow wave won't do anything. If there is enough water underneath you, then its not as big of a deal. When you surf hollow, shallower waves, then its because more critical...
It sounds like your not comfortable in the bigger surf at your break, so maybe wait until you reach that comfort level when it gets bigger.
I couldn't agree more. You should be comfortable (or maybe just shy of comfortable) before paddling out in any size surf. Sure, you need to push yourself or you'll never start surfing in bigger waves, but c'mon guys, there's nothing wrong with being cautious for a while so you don't spook yourself out of getting out there in the bigger/heavier stuff for even longer!
Originally Posted by Swellinfo
Last edited by kielsun; Oct 24, 2011 at 10:31 PM.
you blew it
Here's an easy way to look at it. if you have sand on the bottom and your a decent swimmer, you're fine. Like everyone else said, it's the sets you have to take on the head that suck a big one. That and super cold water haha. Now reefs and rock bottoms.... that's where you have to think about dropping late or trying to get deep. Then again, screw it. ya only live once and if you get the chance to surf Shoulder+ in warm water or anywhere for that matter, go for it. It's all about knowing your own limits and you can't know them until you cross the line for them.
Last edited by 757surfer; Oct 24, 2011 at 11:08 PM.
I would say get in the best possible shape you can be in. That way, fighting through the incoming sets after a wipeout will be a breeze. I have surfed overhead multiple times and have never had a huge problem coming back up...I guess I naturally realize which way is up and how many times I tumbled underwater. I am not the one to wait to float to the surface either. I see the wave coming and go as low as possible and it rolls right over top of you...if another comes it's the same process. I always have a problem with starting the paddle to get back out. With waves of that size, there's usually a lot of water behind the wave, so you tend to paddle in place for a few seconds which gets very tiring.
Best thing is to just go for it and not hesitate. I seem to wipeout only when I hesitate and think about it. of course your going to still have occasional wipeout and it all depends on factors(bottom, swell period, how deep). Im more scared of dredging 6 footers in three feet of water than 10+ in deep water. relax protect your head/neck and charge
It will happen,...that oh sheet moment,....either under or over,...expect it,....try and keep your board away from yourself and others around....and remember which way is up if you can...lol
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