Cmon man!!!!!!!! If you see the report and it says oh to doh, 10-15 direct offshore, just go to the beach, make sure to bring your board (and balls), if you can stand there with board in hand and just watch, then sell ur board and buy some golf clubs. But my guess is you'll be in the lineup charging, wipeouts are wipeouts, some hurt some don't, don't sweat it just charge! Also 6ft wave is doh for a midget, perspective.
yeah how about printing out the answers to this thread, laminating it and stuffing it in your boardshorts, that way you can consult it on your paddle out and be extra ready. Jesus christ. You should be being hazed way more than you are on this thread.So, my question: Are the wipeouts from Shoulder high --to-- Head/1-3 Over really that much worse? Or pretty much the same?
I always laugh about the sand bottom being harmless comments. I have been absolutely pounded on sand bottoms and other than the laceration danger of coral or stone I think sand can be just as dangerous if not more because you take more chances. I think the real issue is the swell itself and not as much the size. A hurricane groundswell will tear you up if you get clipped by the lip and go down hard. Add to that a few more on the head and it can get pretty scary, sand bottom or not. There have been days when it was head high + wind swell and there is no danger at all you can just swim right under it. Get in the habit of recognizing what's about to happen and filling your lungs before the fall. Nothing worse that being on an exhale and eating it on a big wave. Being in good shape helps but I am in pretty good shape especially for my age and head high plus groundswell just plain scares me and this is after 30 + years of it.
Last edited by Zippy; Oct 25, 2011 at 02:15 AM.
in my opinion, wipeouts from bigger days hurt less but take so much more out of you because your being held under so long. On small days, I actually get hurt more often and more severe. As long as you are in good shape, I think you'd be fine. Just know your limits and surf with other people.
This is true, I broke my nose on a knee high day a few years back. Went to do a mini mini floater and the board got kicked up into my face by the backwash off the beach. But then again I got hit in the back of the head on a big winter day about 20 years ago and the board chipped my skull and gave me a slice so I guess it can happen anytime.On small days, I actually get hurt more often and more severe
Give me a break. The guy asked a legit question for someone who's trying to push his limits after surfing for less than two years. I'm sure you're so awesome that you were charging Pipe after two years surfing, but we can't all be as cool as you.Originally Posted by dave
zrich-
if you live in brooklyn where do you surf?
my guess is rockaway
I usually drive out to Long Beach, but it depends on the conditions. Sometimes I'll drive somewhere in Jersey. I grew up in OC, MD and my parents still live there, so I'll paddle out down there when I visit.
people used to do bong hits and slam beers before paddling out in OH surf. Even the most skilled guys out there would get completely obliterated by a wave or two and guess what - everyone would laugh their ass off about it later. I guess what I mean to say is that the people who over-think things that are actually simple i.e. the original poster - are usually the only ones that end up getting themselves messed up.
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