i was workin on a roof today in hatteras village. they were definitly throwin top to bottom and spitting, but i didnt seen anyone make a wave\ pull outta one of those freighters . i was still frothing at the mouth watchin all thoose thick lipped lefts go off. damn job and sh*t
Damn, wish i had have stayed longer, i left Monday...I paddled out Sunday morning at Frisco, drifted damn near a mile and couldn't get into one, then saw a couple guys roll up on jetskis and kids jumping off the back and getting some good rides...
VB on Wednesday was realy fun, I got the best barrel I have had in quite awhile. Shoulder high sets were so clean and plenty of juice, just drop in small bottom/check turn stomp the tail then water wonderland cylinder, then out. Great day, shape of the waves were perfect averaging chest high. It was not the biggest day in recent months but I would have to say the way the sand has moved around in this one spot has created some great shape waves on a SE swell. Thursday still had something left but it was a bit smaller and not as celan .
Didn't go to work, surfed a couple of hours this morning. I am sure not as epic as yesterday, but still worth it. 3/2 with boots and gloves for 2 hours was fine, but froze my a$$ off in the parking lot changing. Love fall surf in NJ.