1994 Oahu, at a place called "The Circle", (no need to give the exact location)....Im white as hell and paddle out on my 6'8" WRV, brand new, carbon fiber reinforced stringer,etc,etc....because I dont know shiz, I paddle out like its a beach break...big mistake.....set comes...I get caught in a reef "boil", cant move......local makes the drop, turns and runs me over like a freight train....I come up, gasping.......hole right in the middle of the stringer from his nose....."You ruined my 10 pointah!" he barks inches from my face....as I prepare for the punch, surpisingly he winks, smiles, and paddles back to the peak.......day one in Hawaii.
Another time was at V-Land with my good friend......my friend gets a bunch a shiz from a local for no reason......calls he to the beach for "beef".....we go in....local sees my friend not backing down, not saying anything, and standing his ground......local barks a few more words then walks away...good move considering my friend was a Captain for Amphibious Assault, Marines.....combat veteran.....
Surfing gets weird sometimes, but try not to throw gas on the fire. In the ocean, there are bigger things to worry about more than other surfers.
Results 31 to 40 of 56
Thread: Surf rage
Nov 16, 2011, 02:03 AM #31Senior Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2011
- Central NJ
Nov 16, 2011, 03:57 AM #32Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2011
surfers supplies is the only good surf shop left on the island IMHO but I been meaning to fo to the wavejammer or buttjammer or whatever it is down there....I hear they sell Christenson boards and I really want one....
Nov 16, 2011, 06:05 AM #33Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2011
One time i was surfing with brob. brob dropped in on kook with soft top. kook falls, brob fall. kook stands up, brob is on my board and accidently shoots it up and hits the kook in the head with it. brob didn't realize he had done any of this while the kook was yelling at brob. the end.
good story Alm.
County Line - Malibu, CA; circa 2002
I'm on my 9'6" and catching quite a few waves while shortboarders are struggling with some non-committal, mushy waves. I am always respectful about letting others get into waves, though, especially in that type of situation, and honestly I wasn't doing anything wrong. So I paddle into a wave, turn backside and as I'm headed down the line some aggro guy is paddling out, probably upset that the waves aren't good for his negative 3'7" performance board that day (ahem, should've looked at the report before leaving home with only one board), and he starts yelling at me. I couldn't really make out what he was saying at first but then it becomes clear that he's cussing wildly while repeating, "You've gotta go somewhere on that thing, brooaahh!" and some other babble. Meanwhile I'm 3/4 of the way up on the nose and headed straight down the line. After I take the wave all the way to the beach I paddle back out, smile, wave him a (hopefully) annoyingly goofy hello, and enjoy the rest of the morning.
Nov 16, 2011, 12:28 PM #36
IMO Waverly is way over rated. It does have nice rights and works when other beaches don't but for the most part I think its just ok. I surf it about a dozen or so times a year when I get talked into going there. I have never had any confrontations there but you do feel somewhat not welcome but that dosent really bother me as long as no one gets in my face. Everyone wants to protect their local break in some way or another so it dosent become Great Adventure. When new people show up at my local - I may not welcome them with open arms but I sure dont try to intimidate them either. I judge each person individually and give them enough rope to hang themself if they so desire. Regarding Heritage OC - again - no problems - bought several boards there new and used and never had an issue but I only deal with a few guys there. Not sure who the dragon lady is but I'll be on the lookout. Also - Surfers Supplies - another good shop.
Nov 16, 2011, 12:36 PM #37Junior Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2011
engine-powered surf rage
One man's humble opinion:
That new Walden Wavejet board (set for delivery to customers this-coming spring) combined with ever-greater numbers of 'surfers' in the ocean (thanks Nike) will create a lot of friction amongst people in the water & on the breaks this summer.
After 2012, as the price of the Wavejet drops & the technology improves, expect an increasing number of people zooming around our breaks.
Motorized surf rage...
Nov 16, 2011, 01:52 PM #38
Nov 16, 2011, 01:54 PM #39Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2009
- Not close enough
Waverly huh, I want to run into this dude now. I feel like anything above North street the vibe just sucks in the water, everyone is pist off. I remember this one dude a few years back in this bright red wetsuit was literally freaking the F out every time he didn't take off on a wave. It was funny to watch him screaming at the ocean, relax man.
But funny thing about ocnj no matter where you paddle out at on the island, if you alone or with one or more buddies, most people think its a open invite to paddle out within 5 feet of you.
Spread out man! I mean whatever it is what it is. If I find myself fighting for a peak, I go find another one where I can have'em all to myself.
I think I ran into the same chick at Heritage, never had a conversation with her, but I will now.
Nov 16, 2011, 02:01 PM #40