"Surfing is even more transitory than climbing up, or skiing down a mountain. At least when you're done, the mountain is still there. . .The problem is that Miki had nothing to show his art. As soon as the wave is gone, it's done. All the beautiful 'wave paintings' he did have disappeared. / You're so in the moment it's like dreaming; you act on instinct. And the dream-state pleasure-producing endorphins are so powerful that when you pull out of the wave you can't wait to catch another and prolong the dream. Talk about addictive."
- David Rensin/(Stacy Peralta hybrid quotation) pg. 17 in Rensin's book "All for a Few Perfect Waves (The audacious Life and Legend of Rebel Surfer Miki Dora)"
Last edited by MDSurfer; Nov 29, 2011 at 06:46 PM.
Chemistry bra... alters state of mind & chemical reactions in the body affect us... can't deny that. Cool little article for sure... I can relate to feeling relaxed and great a day or two after a great sesh.
I know there's some truth to the negative ion theory... it's used as therapy for some types of mood disorders. But I highly doubt that the natural concentration is high enough at the beach to create those same effects. I know that in one test, low concentrations of negative ions yielded NO results... low being about 10,000 ions per cubic meter of air. Only very high concentrations (<2.5 million ions per cubic meter of air) in controlled environments prove effective.
Still... it can't be bad for you, that's for sure!
I think LBCrew pretty much sums it up.
on a side note....Stoke = endorphins. Not, Ions in the air......
Last edited by Aguaholic; Nov 30, 2011 at 12:08 AM.