Surfed 4 hours. 2 of them alone...the the last 2 w/ one other dude!! Bomb sets...easily 8 footers...barreling....reeling...perfect south swell lines! Thank you Santa!! What a freaking morning...Frothin!!
Conditions were surprisingly better then expected (really good actually). Unfortunately my body and brain were not jiving.. couldn't pull it together out there today. Still, stayed out for 2 1/2 hrs then finally said ok this wasn't meant to be. Think I over-stoked.
one of the heaviest days ive ever surfed, no exaggeration. outside of tropical swells, this might have been the heaviest. huge, thick waves came in and really jacked up. surfed a good 90 minutes before work this morning and was stoked all day, EXCEPT for the fact that my thruster snapped
you could fit a car in the bigger barrels. hope everyone got some today