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  1. #11
    I am embarressed to say I took a 12yr break from surfing with any regularity. I had a number of reasons: work,hang overs,marriage, kids, DIY home projects---all lame. I caught the bug again this past spring and get out at least 1-2x week. Life is busier then ever but surfing actually makes me feel younger, back in tune with nature and gives me more appreciation for everything else. The only problem is ... can't get enough! I would give anything to get back those 12 years of surfing opportunity. Never take anything for granted.
    Last edited by cmurr73; Jan 14, 2012 at 11:50 PM.

  2. #12
    54 & still chugging, all be it at a much slower pace. Don't do the really big stuff anymore, but thats OK. 3-4 or so, I just enjoy being out there, doing what I can & enjoying the water & hopefully the people. I love talking to anyone that will chew the fat, all things surfing or other. I started surfing in late 60's & have never lost my love of the sport. I think because its so much more than just a sport. It cures me of anything that ailing me at the time & if the waves are good its just a bonus.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Atlantic County
    Posts
    273
    Images
    1
    Well LBCrew you're a wise one....yeah I have other issues besides my surfing life. But the deal is that I rarely miss a swell, but I'm not stoked to go out. More often than not, I just do it because, "that's what I do." I used to get a relaxing, peaceful feeling from just being in the ocean no matter how crap the waves were. That's not happening anymore. If you factor waves and crowds, I surf one of the best spots in NJ. ****, I didn't see but three people from mid-October until mid-December. And another thing, I don't feel nor appreciate the aesthetics of it all anymore. I don't get lost in all that is nature these days. I don't even try and creep up on Seaguls anymore. I don't know maybe me and New Jersey just don't get along anymore. Maybe I'm just damaged beyond repair, and will never get a natural peace back. Oh well.......but what about the waves? One dude, sorry I forget your moniker, said Friday was just as good as anywhere in the world. He must know about some world class waves in Jersey that I have missed. We get, not world class, but classy waves a handful of times a year....if we are lucky. Yeah, I know y'all boo hoo......but I'm just wondering if this happens to other people after too many years in New Jersey. And I'm not someone who wonders if things that are happening to me happen to others. But in this case, I was.

  4. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by SouthjettyBill View Post
    Well LBCrew you're a wise one....yeah I have other issues besides my surfing life. But the deal is that I rarely miss a swell, but I'm not stoked to go out. More often than not, I just do it because, "that's what I do." I used to get a relaxing, peaceful feeling from just being in the ocean no matter how crap the waves were. That's not happening anymore. If you factor waves and crowds, I surf one of the best spots in NJ. ****, I didn't see but three people from mid-October until mid-December. And another thing, I don't feel nor appreciate the aesthetics of it all anymore. I don't get lost in all that is nature these days. I don't even try and creep up on Seaguls anymore. I don't know maybe me and New Jersey just don't get along anymore. Maybe I'm just damaged beyond repair, and will never get a natural peace back. Oh well.......but what about the waves? One dude, sorry I forget your moniker, said Friday was just as good as anywhere in the world. He must know about some world class waves in Jersey that I have missed. We get, not world class, but classy waves a handful of times a year....if we are lucky. Yeah, I know y'all boo hoo......but I'm just wondering if this happens to other people after too many years in New Jersey. And I'm not someone who wonders if things that are happening to me happen to others. But in this case, I was.
    It happens, especially I think due to the fact that NY/NJ/Northeast is so wave barren and cold compared to places like socal/santa cruz/ etc. Just try to keep the stoke up anyway you can ...get a new board, try a new break, change up your scenery, go skiing/snowboarding/skating to make yourself miss surfing! Others are right, you gotta be at peace with yourself or find peace with yourself when you go for a surf however.

  5. #15
    if it isn't doin' it for ya, find something else that will. If it DID at one point, you're a passionate person and need a suitable outlet.

  6. #16
    I have to agree on living in NJ..it's a love hate thing.

  7. #17
    Dude...I hate it for ya. Older and colder just makes it a little tougher. During the cold spells, take your stoke and put it into something else that makes you feel good about yourself. Start a workout plan (something daily like P90X) that helps you to make a change in you. It helps you feel good about who you are. Removes the outside world from interfering with your life and importantly is something you have total control over. I can tell you honestly you will feel accomplished daily, weekly and most importantly at the end of the 90 days you will be proud of yourself just for making the commitment to you. By then, the water will be warmer, the days longer, your strength and stamina, flexibility and balance on point. Then...paddle out with the teens and 20 somethings and laugh out loud. Importantly, HAVE FUN! Your stoke will be back. We all go through similar times in our lives. Peace.
    Last edited by WesB; Jan 15, 2012 at 08:11 PM.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    VB via PR and HI
    Posts
    231
    Quote Originally Posted by SouthjettyBill View Post
    Well LBCrew you're a wise one....yeah I have other issues besides my surfing life. But the deal is that I rarely miss a swell, but I'm not stoked to go out. More often than not, I just do it because, "that's what I do." I used to get a relaxing, peaceful feeling from just being in the ocean no matter how crap the waves were. That's not happening anymore. If you factor waves and crowds, I surf one of the best spots in NJ. ****, I didn't see but three people from mid-October until mid-December. And another thing, I don't feel nor appreciate the aesthetics of it all anymore. I don't get lost in all that is nature these days. I don't even try and creep up on Seaguls anymore. I don't know maybe me and New Jersey just don't get along anymore. Maybe I'm just damaged beyond repair, and will never get a natural peace back. Oh well.......but what about the waves? One dude, sorry I forget your moniker, said Friday was just as good as anywhere in the world. He must know about some world class waves in Jersey that I have missed. We get, not world class, but classy waves a handful of times a year....if we are lucky. Yeah, I know y'all boo hoo......but I'm just wondering if this happens to other people after too many years in New Jersey. And I'm not someone who wonders if things that are happening to me happen to others. But in this case, I was.
    I've been there where you are right now. I'm not from New Jersey but moving from Hawaii back to the east coast was really depressing and I rarely went out last winter. I never even drove to the Outer Banks. Last spring I checked the surf report one evening and it was calling for a mediocre swell. I went and surfed that morning. The sun was rising behind the clouds giving off an eerie pink light and there was nobody out and nowone on the beach. It was glassed off and about chest high and the water was warm and unusually clear for here. I'm not a writer so I'll stop there. But when I got out of the water and walked back to my car I felt like a kid again. That did it for me and now I surf every swell trying to get that session back. It only takes one magical morning and wave to make you remember why you surf.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Promontorium Tremendum
    Posts
    930
    Images
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by havanasand View Post
    It only takes one magical morning and wave to make you remember why you surf.
    ^this^

  10. I think I get it. Pushin' 40 myself. Tired more often (got a kid or kids? then you know). Colder quicker, even with better suits than back in the day. Less performance with more pain (knees, back, old rib injury). More sessions end with me still chasin' it. I moved outta Jerz to NC a few years ago. It helped me out but it's got me looking West. Better waves/weather, more groundswell, less wind, longer rides. Despite all this, I do still get stoked like a kid from time to time. Maybe take a break for a while and reevaluate with perspective.