boooooo... memories arn't! granted i won't admit how long it's been since i've logged one of those.. take that back. last year i took thurs off instead of fri for irene while in the OBX (bad move); took the longboard out because I figured that's the only way i could grab one of those waves.. first time i have ever been afraid to [I]paddle in[I]! did. not. get. one. it was really heavy and i was alone! everyone i knew was working (non-local) and it was only breaking wayyyyy far out. nervous is a good description. sat outside for about 30 or 45 before i turned tail
Last edited by beagleagle; Apr 13, 2012 at 04:47 AM.
I agree 100 percent. Only a few select spots on the East Coast can handle the long period energy, and I do mean a few. Everywhere else for the most part is walled. The best swells on the East Side and any sandbar for that matter are the combo swells, creating peaky conditions.