
Originally Posted by
Pursuitofhappiness
I was there from 7 until 2 on Wed. Swellinfo had it as a 2ft clean day. It was cleaner until about 10. A crosswind picked up and made it fairly choppy for the rest of the time, however it was very clean when the wind died down a couple of times and I enjoyed some nice rides.
I've been a bodyboarder for 30 yrs, but transitioned to a surfboard two years ago. After experiencing what you've described numerous times on very nice 9'8''--being out and catching nothing--I decided to go to a surf camp and it was a total game changer. Learned how to read the sets so I didn't waste as much energy paddling for trash waves. I also used a 12ft surftech softtop with stoked success that I purchased one after I got back east, and am glad I did. The longer board gives a faster hull speed.
I don't live close either, therefore I need something that will give me every advantage whenever I can get down. Was out on a really trashy, foggy cold day in March and still caught some rides. Softtops get a bad rap from a lot of surfers, but mine transformed me. Wed was an okay day. Timing was everything. Had to take a couple extra paddles to catch them, then you had to get up really quick or go over the falls. Aloha and Mahalo. Hope to see you there sometime.