A2... I hear ya, brother. Wednesday night's cleanup was freakin' awesome. My best session of this week's run of swell. Ate dinner with the family, went down to the beach, and got perfect chest/shoulder high sets with just a couple other guys. Pulled into a few little tubes... watched the stars come out. Drove home in the dark. Gives you that soulful feeling...
THAT's what makes it all worth it... and why we can't let go and keep coming back.
I would call that trying to land it rather than trying not to wipe out- you could stand perfectly still (on an LB or SUP) & never have to worry about falling and that's lame
Isn't that what most SUPs do anyway? Believe me, when I'm having an off day I will try the same stuff but it is more so on the "not trying to wipe out" side of things. When I'm on, its more of the "trying to land things."
Actually, I just though of something that is going to turn our incredibly semantical discussion on it's head: Barrel riding. Is it staying mostly still and trying not to wipe out while getting deep as possible, or are you trying to land it(figuratively speaking)?
Did someone mention something about a blunt? Oh yeah, back to the topic, I have always loved the water and have always tried to spend as much time as possible in or on it--that's why I'm addicted to surfing.
I'll hit that too. I was 100% surf stoke until I did some traveling. That humbled me a bit. Now if the waves are good, I go surfing. If they suck, I ride my motorcycle or mountainbike or sit in the garage smoking J's. Surfing is hands down still my favorite way to let loose but a working man has to pick his battles, especially on this coast. Basically, the travels taught me that if I was as serous about surfing as I thought I was, I would have moved somewhere with better waves. Surfing takes a place in your life, and it is exactly where you put it.
Surfing is the only sport where I could sit on the beach and watch the ocean for hours and not be bored. I dont look up pics of basketball courts or football fields. Not only are you controlling the surfboard but the entire ocean is also constantly moving and alot more powerful and humbling than anything on earth. No half pipe or vert ramp will ever give you the feeling of dropping in to a big wave or getting ****ed up by big wave. o and pass that blunt.