
Originally Posted by
Koki Barrels
to the OP...if that's all your getting out of it, then your doing something wrong...just being in the water for me is the purest form of enjoyment, it helps me to forget about all the bs in life/on land...it's like that part in Goonies, when they're down under the manhole cover and the kid says, "up there, that's your time, but down here, man this is our time" or whatever the f he says...i can't explain it, but without surfing I am a miserable f&ck...i could ramble on, but f%ck it, pass that mutha.