There is nothing like scoring perfect waves for me, but I'm pretty happy doing anything active or outside. Surf, Ski, Golf, Tennis, Mountain Bike, Baseball, Basketball, Football, Ping Pong, Bowling, Darts. Its all good to me. And, if you live on the East Coat, you better find some other hobby outside of surf...
I guess I ment anyone who is fit and able,and also has the will to dedicate themselves can learn.I caught my first real wave on a surfboard at 44,still learning of course,dont think I'll ever be kelly slater but having fun and thats why I picked it up.I feel a bond with nature too,but feel that way most of the time no matter what i'm doing(outside).It is a personal expression ,we all approach it differently.
Ridiculous - maybe, but I still love it. I'm new at it and I even put on a human condom just to go into 40 degree water and fall off a bunch of times. I even went out early one morning (7 am) when air temp was 32 degrees. When my husband woke up at about 9:00 he freaked! Luckily I was already out of the water when he called to find out if I was ok
Just got my two older daughters (12 and 10) their first wetsuits. We went out yesterday in the lake Atlantic. I just wanted them to get used to paddling in a wetsuit, and get used to the chilly temps. After about a half hour and some frozen toes, we headed in. They both were talking about just how happy they were to be back in the water. Let me jump in a flat, cold ocean to paddle around for a half hour, get out with a smile on my face and ask when are we gonna do it again. I guess they are "all in" on this ridiculous sport, and I am psyched.