
Originally Posted by
GnarActually
Started surfing...maybe 7 or 8 after I fell in love with the free wednesday's surf lessons back in the day. Got my first board at 8 years old, a 5'9 cannibal fish. I started to hang out with kids 2 years older than me and were a lot better than me so I was embarrassed to surf with them, so i started to boogie board, fins and all. I kind of tried to surf the wave rather than do body rolls or whatever. When I was i think 11 or 12 I met a friend, good friend today, that was just was bad as me at surfing but we decided to get really dedicated and surf all the time. I remember surfing for like 4 hours at a time and getting like 3 waves - i guess just getting my water time in. But by the end of that summer i felt comfortable riding the line. When i was 13 it was the best year of my life. Too young to have a job (still sold newspapers in the mornin') and i'd go to the surfing beach and we had a crew of like 15 groms and we'd surf just every single second of every day no matter what. Now at 20, most of the "crew" quit due to laziness, other stuff, drugs ect. but I still remember that feeling when i was 13 having the time of my life and thats my fire today. At 14 I thought i was mister big shot and me and the boys always talked about trying to get sponsored but of course we weren't good enough. But that year was when i really could do cutbacks and little turns and even try little airs, but never making them of course. Now I just flat out rip. Ha, kidding. I like to surf. It's making other aspects of my life harder such as relationships, being called selfish (sometimes), school work (in college, an motivated to get a job), but deep down inside I am secretly forming the rest of my life around surfing. And it kind of sucks because their are a lot of other amazing things in the world, but I can't help it. I'd love to go see the beautiful hills and mountains of Montana or some BS like that, but no way in hell am I going on a trip and not surfing. helll naw
Wow, that was one of the most sincere things I ever wrote on this. i guess because i'm doing anything to get my mind off studying managerial accounting. Sh it sucks!