How was your last surf? Mine was great. Yesterday evening it was breaking 2-3', with about 8k on-shore winds. Pretty clean faces. I was out for about an hour on the reef and stopped counting after about my 10th wave. Rode a 9'2" my father-in-law shaped me for Xmas. Overcast skies (May Gray, thanks Coastal Eddy), too overcast to see the sunset; but the water is warm enough for a spring suit, maybe board shorts this weekend. See you on the line-up this afternoon.
"The act of the ride is the epitome of 'be here now' and the tube ride is the most acute form of that." - Dr. Leary