For the most part this rock reef can be a good clean spot. On this particular day I was a newer surfer and an older more experienced surfer called and said we had 24ft at 21 seconds. Unreal conditions in a closed off cove protected from wind and cross swell. We got there and the indicator rock which is a mile or so out was looking like Mavericks. It was low tide and the shore pound was over head right onto the rock reef. I decided to hit it up even though the reef was exposed because I got the go ahead from the old dude. I had to run along the rock reef and push through the overhead close out shore pound to get out to the break. Because of the low tide the kelp was all over the top. I really should not have been out at that time but I was young and wanted some big wave experience and this was my chance.
The sets rolled in and I paddled into a double to triple overhead giant got spit right out the top and over the falls. I didn't hit reef so I tried it gain(a little more calm this time). The wave size and speed clearly out matched me and I was again shot out of the cannon. Getting pretty scared at the size of these sets and the fact that the kelp was everywhere and the reef was not to far below I decided to make my exit.
All the other times I surfed there were mellow. That was my day with the giants of the NW.
Results 51 to 54 of 54
May 19, 2012, 01:29 AM #51Junior Member
- Join Date
- May 2012
The Dump / The Cove - Washington St
May 19, 2012, 02:04 AM #53Junior Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2012
One morning last fall in lbi, it was just this friend and I. There was a SW swell and the waves were chest high... not too big. But the water was starting to get a little colder and there had recently been a shark spotting by the BL inlet... near where we were surfing. Every movement in the water freaked me out. That whole session I was trippin out.
May 19, 2012, 03:54 AM #54
At one of my breaks,I was inches away from being pushed into the opening of one of those huge runoff pipes.Low tide,Pretty decent size wave,with a wicked current.After I made it around the pipe my board was on the other side of the pipe.My leash got wrapped around the bottom of the pipe and started to pull me under.It was kind of a blur but I believe I took the leash off my ankle and pulled my board back to me.I'll never look at that pipe the same way.